Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Just put a basso semi integrated stem on a bike with an xx44/inset 7 headset. Am I right in thinking I can just stick the stem straight on the bearings? I put a 2 or 3mm spacer underneath which sits on the middle but, and it all seems to go quite nicely together. Just curious if I should instead use a tester low stack cover underneath it.

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Try a Shimano enclosed cam quick release - much higher clamping forces

Will give that a shot, although don't really want to be punting more money at something that may not work, but I suppose I don't have a choice.

Gone for this,
Shimano Deore XT WH-M788-R Quick Release Skewer - 135mm.

Finger crossed it does the job.

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There appears to be some rub on the lockring!!!

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It's an old wheel set?
I'll check it again in the morning, but what would rubbing on the lock ring mean? That it's too flush to the inside of the dropouts?

Mr Pink repaired with clear coat and a tiny Steve Buscemi Sticker

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This is the way

I’ve got a tiny bit of play on the biggest cluster on my XT M8000 cassette but the lock ring is cranked down pretty hard. Is this normal, does it need a spacer at the bottom or something?

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Ok, just feeding back for anyone else. Apparently you need a 1.85mm spacer at the bottom if using an 11s MTB cassette on an 11s road hub.

the pop rivets on my PDW front guard that holds on the brake hanger has come loose. I drilled them out and replaced them with aluminium pop rivets which came loose in about 10 minutes.

Should I have used different material pop rivets? If so, what?

I have very small clearances so can't use a nut and bolt.

Is cutting the thread off a 1" fork to make it threadless dodgy in anyway?
I'd make sure I had enough steerer for it all to work first.

Can’t see why it would be but would just have thought that it was unlikely you’d have enough steerer left, threadless needs more than threaded.

I’ve done it

PDW front guard

It may be that the guard is made of very thin material !? Try putting washers the other side from the hanger to sandwich it and provide more strength.

Would there be enough room for a flat/shallow head bolt?

+1 to this.

Shimano QR (anything like deore and above) are just so much better than most QR out there, and have been since about 1994?
In workshop, as many others do as well, you get lower end bikes with discs, even very low end mechanical disc brakes, and bike is supplied with super cheap external type QR with a plastic bush in them. You brake and the hub moves in the dropout as the QR is actual garbage. Do it enough times and you end up with a worn fork or frame dropout. Easiest solution is put a decent QR on it. Sometimes need to face inside of dropout if there is already damage to it, so check that too.

there would - but then I'd have to use a nut on the other side which is too big

Still no room even with the bolt head on the inside of the guard and the nut on the outside?

With the pdws the mounting point is under the fork crown so that’s not possible. I guess I could redrill the mudguard and move the mount point. Thanks for that idea

In the past, after measuring, fitting, and loctiting I’ve taken a dremel to the underside and ground down the nut/bolt interface until they’ve cleared the tire. That held for as long as I needed it to.

Couple of washers with the rivet was a good shout too dunno if you’ve tried that already.

just to say - I rotated the mount and found the smallest and flushest nut and bolt I had and because I'd rotated the mount that now sat under the gap between the brake and the fork so worked perfectly and the guard doesn't rattle or rub. Stoked, thanks for giving me the idea!

Nice!
I also recommend a spring washer if it'll fit, as guards do love to shake loose.

So is it possible to install a single hydraulic inline brake on a 31.8mm drop bar, next to the stem ?
I have a vague idea that those sram clamps would allow it, i am wrong ?

context : i recently found some disc forks for a fixed gear bike, pondering the options to built it up.