Home DIY

Yes, A is the same as B. You could remove A but would need a male to male barrel to connect to the connector amongst the newspaper.

That's the problem, I don't know where they come from. There is no plastic in the cupboard with the new cylinder. I'll brave the eaves where the old coffin tank is to see if they come from there.

There is, apparently, a single manufacturer in Germany that supplies all of the solid core blanks in the UK

Calling bullshit on that I get all of my fire doors and door blanks direct from a UK based manufacturer who will do both multi-laminate and particle board cores.
Lead time is ~ 3 weeks if you pay a 20% premium on usual prices.

*shrug*

I only know what I was told by a number of suppliers that I spoke to (although I did speak to a lot over a few weeks) - and full sized blanks were out of stock everywhere I looked

Any reason I shouldn’t add what I can of PIR insulation before putting new plasterboard on these batons (external wall)?

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That should be fine unless you’ve got damp issues.

When plastering the kitchen walls the plasterer added a batten around the door frame butting up to the door lining. I’m guessing that if I just fill this and rehang the door it’ll constantly crack. So what’s the best approach? I could add some 6mm mdf as a slim door lining but then there’ll be a join on the outside face next to the architrave. I’d prefer not to have to remove the architrave and make good on the other side of the door if possible.

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Not a dig at you. More frustration at how supply lines for such things work out. Usual supplier runs out - dont bother looking for an alternative and use the gap in supply to massively increase you margin

Not DIY but thinking of TW, how much does it cost these days to supply and fit an internal door + architrave? It's to a kitchen so presume fire door?

Toupret do an elastic filler and fine scrim tape. It's a fiddle because the filler shrinks so you need a few coats and it's tricky to sand so you should probably use a fine filler over it but I've had great results on things like skirting boards.

There are lots of ways to do it though and whether it cracks again depends on a lot of factors. Even decorators caulk would work but it's difficult to make it look really well done.

If you are replacing like with like then there is no requirement to fit a fire door unless building control are involved.

It is not uncommon for someone who is renovating/extending their house to fit fire doors for sign off by the inspector. To then replace them after work has been done as there is much more choice in terms of appearance available for non-fire doors.

In terms of cost it's a question of how long is a bit of string as it a large scale. The door is the main cost and unless you are going for solid hardwood the liner and architrave should be reasonable. Look at Howdens for lower end stuff and I can tell you how much it would cost me (to give you an idea). Todd doors is a good starting point for the middle of the line stuff there are lots of other online options.

Our last set of internal doors came from Jeld Wen. Seem pretty sturdy and robust and weighty...

We did somethin similar on an external wall - i.e., sat 25mm PIR inbetween battens but the battens were mounted on battens themselves so it kept a 20mm-ish air gap. this was because the brick was sopping wet from being concrete rendered/tanked badly. Worked pretty well for warmth/wall drying out.

TLDR yes, but it could be easier/quicker to rip them off and dot-dab some PIR plasterboard

The temperature control on my shower keeps sticking. Very stiff to turn and occasionally "slips" so that you need to point it in a different direction to get the same temperature. Any suggestions on how to fix it? Looks something like this:

Cheers

Anyone had experience glueing forbo furniture Lino onto ply and can suggest a glue? Forbo say to use acrylic adhesive, which is fine, but (1) the Forbo own brand stuff is expensive and only seems to come in massive tubs, and (2) searching for acrylic adhesive also seems to bring up spray stuff.

Spray seeks easier to me (I’m only doing max 2m square) but any thoughts on whether it will work OK? It’s for cupboard doors so does need to be pretty well stuck…

BiL is a cabinet maker and says he uses regular D2 wood glue. I'd probably go for D3, if I was making something for a kitchen.

Ta, will have a look at wood glues. I wasn’t sure about how well the lino would like it but helpful to hear an expert’s view!

I would normally use contact adhesive for such applications. Contact adhesive comes in spray cans or in pour/scrape on tins. The forbo website advises using contact adhesive for curved surfaces so its fine to use with the product. I'm guessing that they recommend wood glue because its more forgiving, although I would have reservations doing it that way with out a vacum clamp.

I've linked to this in the past and its for melamine, but the same principles apply to a product like this, extra care would have to be taken as the linoleum will be more flexible.

https://youtu.be/hUvTY6bFhSE

Is there a small grub screw on the underside of the handles?

Amazing, thanks - vid is really helpful too

Two simple questions about two different doors. I've sort of asked about this previously, but I lost my nerve to actually start it so thought I'd just double check. Have put in a ply fire door, the plan is to clean - sand - osmo it. My concern is if I go at it with decreasing grades of sandpaper, is there any risk I go through the veneer or lose the detail of the veneer graining that's currently there? Also, what's the best product to clean off the black-ish marks on the door at the moment? I think possibly a bit oily so assuming something chemical but maybe just sand them off?

Then I picked up a fluted glass wooden door for the bathroom. Really this just wants a new coat of paint, but my question is can I just sand it to give the surface a 'key' for a new coat of paint or would I get a significantly better finish taking a heat gun to it (carefully, around the glass) and bringing it back to wood, or close thereto?

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Bathroom extractor fans - does anyone have experience speccing a system?

Both the main bathroom and ensuite would benefit from extractors, but I don't want to/don't really have space to put a vent through an exterior wall. However, I do have a (now unused) soil stack vent - any chance I can reuse this, or is that a bad idea? (and if so, why?)
There should be space to put in rigid ducting through the loft, but I don't want to waste money over-speccing for lack of appropriate knowledge/experience.

Went with plydirect, ordered at 4.57pm on friday and arrived this morning about 10am :)

Great service and everything arrived as expected quality-wise (some 12mm S+/BB and some 18mm marine ply) - would recommend.

Thank you!

Insulated ducting solves many unforeseen problems.