Home DIY

I'm going to dig out the kitchen floor because I suspect it's made of crap, and I'd like to insulate it and also make it so that the finished floor level is the same as the floorboards in the room next to it.

Will dig down 300mm ish, do hardcore/sub-base > sand > dpm > insulation > dpm again > concrete > screed

Actual question is about the last one - what's the difference between CEMENT-BASED LEVELLING COMPOUND and CEMENT-BASED LEVELLING SCREED ?

its for different depths of cover, first one is 0-10mm and the second one is for 3-50mm (says on the bag)

thank you! one of those things that probably should have been self-explanatory really - lots of first time bits and bobs for me at the moment.

Safest place for any important document is mixed in with random piles of junk mail, letters about nothing important, and those old pay slips from 2001 that you were going to organised (since 2002). No thief, or anyone, will ever go through that stuff looking for your valuable piece of paper with all the bank codes/pins/passwords for lock boxes distributed throughout the house also disguised as piles of old bike parts and used cardboard boxes (they are good boxes, need to keep those!).
You can also hide money and bonds this way too. Any thief who does realise there are valuables hidden between the used but good cardboard boxes and old bike parts, will go insane trying to find any meaningful amount of them.
Also live next to a dealer, is also good security.

Thats my security anyways.

Also built my first* stud wall today - moving it back to its original position after the previous owner (landlord/student let) thought blocking part of the bay window to make the box room a double was a good idea…

*please don’t zoom in, you probably won’t like what you see..!

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Should have spent more time making sure the core I drilled the other day was straight. Had to hammer the ever living shit out of a piece of pipe just now to force it through. Missed once and hit my little finger. Missed a second time and got my thumb. Brought out a wooden chopping board to use as a go between. Broke it in half.

Done it though.

It's fun learning though!

We had to do the same thing in our house. Trickier than it seemed for us as there was (Obvs) a slight bow in the floor and ceiling so all the stud had to be cut at a slight angle. Looks great!

Should have just used the core drill to straighten it up, that what we do if that happens.

It's fine! Get the labourer to slap a bit of filler in the massive hole in the plaster that goes back to brick and offer the usual 30 year / 35 yard guarantee*.

😉

• Work is guaranteed for 30 years or until the builder gets 35 yards away from the property upon completion whichever comes first.
  

I'm amazed you managed to drill it squint. Even when I used to occasionally go to work hungover I failed to manage that.

Sorry I seem to remember saying it was hard to do.

My efforts over the last 4 days.

Quick finish up and tidy up tomorrow.

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Now the rage has simmered, it does look fairly straight. But the hole in the outer layer of concrete is pretty tight compared to hole through the brick which has got several mil of leeway.
So it was just getting snagged on that lip. Once I managed to break through it on the day I was just so relieved I immediately boxed the drill up and took it back, without spending a few more minutes widening the concrete aputure.

Currently reading after the fact about crush resistant glove tips.

Yowch

haha! i’m still trying to ignore the fact that about 3/4 of the house could really do with a replaster - even the more modern bits appear to just be slapped on top of the original lath and plaster

even the more modern bits appear to just be slapped on top of the original lath and plaster

Oh what could go wrong

running out of money is main one at the moment…

shakes fist at DIY kitchens website that shows prices without VAT by default

on the topic of expensive things - any go-to places (online?) for nice B/BB birch ply - probs 9mm..?

Warning birch ply is expensive these days.

Ply direct these guys will supply full boards or cut to size

Or

Cutwrights who are a board cutting service but will supply birch ply.

brill - ta!

Probably too late now but put any crushed fingers under running cold water immediately and until there's no more redness (sometimes as much as 15 minutes). I guess ice would do but that's not always available on site.

Thanks, did so. Electrician coming tomorrow for the hob/extractor and then just plumber to do last bits when I can wrangle one, then it's on to decorating the bastard room. Hopefully injury options are limited now.

Where should I be putting handles on a drawer if:

-the top section of the drawer is pretty narrow/close to the worksurface
-the middle section seems very thin (thinner than the thinnest bit of the breakaway screw things it comes with)

Maybe a batten or something behind the middle panel to make it thicker?

I've found a fitted organiser to go in it which comes up flush with the top so any batten could be hidden.

It depends on the drawer construction.

If it's the old school drawer box with the drawer front screwed to it the the middle panel through to the inside of the drawer box will work but you may have to countersink the screw.

If it's the modern Blum style drawer boxes i'd check the thickness of the panel (put a straight edge across the top and bottom rail of the drawer front and measure to the face of the panel, then deduct this from the overall thickness). If it's more than 6mm you should be golden as not much pressure will be out through the screws handle in normal use just don't overtighten. I'd be amazed if this wasn't taken into consideration when it was designed.

Possibly a stupid question, but I want to cut down metal (Twinslot tracks). Now I've got a mitre saw (DeWalt DWS773-GB) I want to use that instead of a hacksaw, but have a wood blade.

Given that I'm a DIYer should I buy a multipurpose blade or a metal blade?I'm guessing the highest tooth count as it will give a cleaner cut, and my use will be low? Best to buy DeWalt, or is there a go-to aftermarket company?

Cheers.

Edit: I do have an angle grinder with a metal blade, but am less confident about getting a neat 90° cut. If there's a trick that would be cool to know.