Cargo Bikes

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  • @BrickMan gifting that surprise validation to mechanics with GSDPTSD.

  • On the subject of annoying puncture repairs, has anyone managed to swap an inner tube on the rear of an Urban Arrow on their own? I've yet to get a puncture but after it took 2 of us to get the rear wheel out in the comfort of our warehouse, I reckon I'd be fucked if I did. I'll probably get one of those linear inner tubes mentioned above but was wondering if there are any tricks I could try.

  • All the pedal me riders are expected to be able to repair a puncture solo.

    It’s much easier with Rohloff but this is what we used to do with the Nuvinci hubs:

    Assuming your bike is the new style of rear dropout:

    Front wheel off
    Weight on front of bike to lift rear wheel into the air
    Release all remaining air from rear tyre
    Loosen nuts and Drop rear wheel out of dropout.
    Unhook tyre bead from rotor side
    Pull inner tube out
    Locate source of puncture (all this with the chain still hooked on and Nuvinci gears still attached)
    Get new toob in
    Seat tyre again
    push wheel back into dropouts (with tyre still uninflated)
    Fix wheel nuts
    Check everything else is tight while you’re at it
    Pump up tyre.

    Takes about 10 - 15mins on the side of the road if you’re good at it.

    Soo much easier with Rohloff to get the rear wheel on and off.

    Been a while since I’ve done it but hope this helps!

  • You have to take the front wheel off, to take the back wheel off?

  • Yes, with an XL anyway the stand kind of acts like a seesaw, so if you take the front wheel off you can lift the rear right up high in the air.

  • That's really helpful, thanks! I think removing the front wheel and tipping the bike forward is the key. We use Rohloff so the technical process of removing the rear wheel isn't too tricky, it's just physically getting the bike in to a position to be able to do that I'd be a bit stuck on. Will have a play about with removing the front wheel today.

  • Ah ok, yes with Rohloff the method is the same, but I’d remove the gear box, and unhook the chain and just completely get that wheel out, makes it easier to fault find and then get the tube back in. Remember not to pump up the tyre till the end! Can hinder getting the wheel back in position.

  • Ah, so it’s to convert to to a standing position, I read it quick and assumed you meant the front wheel allowed you to remove the rear and my brain cried

  • Also haven't (tempting providence here) had a puncture on my UA. I've had the rear wheel out when I had to swap the Enviolo hub (the 2nd one) so know how to do it. When I bought the UA the fella in the shop recommended getting a Gaddi tube to just tuck in, in situ. Haven'te tried it yet but looks more difficult than removing the wheel!

  • This worked really well, thanks! Just gave it a test run in the comfort of our warehouse.

  • Coh & co, cargo? The funny one sided no fork job, anyone seen one in real life or ridden? Don't think I've had been in the uk yet.

    And yes, am defo suffering from gsdptsd.

  • My load 75 has been put back another 2 months. Shock horror. Chips for the batteries apparently.

  • The problems are real. Sucks to be on the receiving end of it though.

    I can see the other side coming though, there is light at the end of the tunnel. Its just a bloody long tunnel. A few bikes and accessory items that weren't scheduled for months just turned up this week, made a few customer very happy!

  • I did mean the Bullit X Vs the UA-XL

    I'm definitely interested in a comparison.

    Loading dimensions look like they'll be very similar. Nicer riding position, perhaps a little less maintenance (at the expense of a bit of comfort/smooth riding for more fragile loads), probably a fair chunk lighter.

  • My bullitt has finally arrived (ordered in November) picking it up at the weekend. Very excited!

  • I've seen their demo fleet, but even here in their hometown not a single one in the wild, which is not a good sign. I'm told it's not good to ride...

  • My bullitt has finally arrived (ordered in November) picking it up at the weekend. Very excited!

    Right on!

  • Any tall people have experience with the Urban Arrow XL cargo?

    I’m 6ft3 and have struggled with other cargo bikes feeling very cramped.

  • You’ll have to test it, the higher you have the seatpost the further it puts you away from the cockpit due to the seat tube angle. Have seen a fair few very tall people on them and they seem to get on just fine. In a few instances I had to buy some 450mm or so seatposts for the very tall riders

  • Yes, think I will booking a test ride is best. I would prefer an Omnium but the bike will likely be used by other people in the future. So an XL omnium likely wouldn't be suitable.

  • My UA is finally in production, but now not expected at FC until early April

  • Asking here because the ebike thread didn’t really get any bites…

    So any of you guys know much about batteries? Especially higher voltage/capacity ones?

    I may be putting a QS mid motor onto the junked trials bike frame (ICE was uneconomical/irreparable).

    Main issue is that I need to source 72V worth of power, at a relatively high current and with enough capacity to last more than 5 minutes.

    Maybe some of the cargo bikes have larger batteries?

  • What wattage is the motor?

    There seems to be stuff available, but it looks pricey:
    https://www.ebikemodshed.co.uk/products/72v-35ah-38-5ah-42ah-rectangle-samsung-lithium-battery-for-72v-big-power-ebike

    You could always build the battery yourself but apparently the economy of buying all the stuff to do that isn't worth it unless you're making a lot of batteries

  • Saw that link yes. You’re right, it would be more economical in time and materials to have one built by a pro.

    It’s probably the 3kW QS 138 that I’d go for.

    Options are limited and the QS seems to be the least bodge option.

    Alternative was to use any motor (maybe a spare hub motor for an ebike), and find a way to fabricate a reduction and final drive to the correct sprocket. Seems like too many points of failure, and may not peak with enough current to be useful anyway. This idea was based on that classic e-cargo setup where a separate motor is rigged to the chainring like a belt-driven motor assembly.

  • I bet that is the battery chip shortage that has pushed mine back too.

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Cargo Bikes

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