• what about design 3 and then some free hand script on the tt, seat post side.

    posibly your name or a meme "retrogrouch", "gravelle", "rally"

    when i got decals for my maveric i got a sheet of these cool raleigh technium decals and they had this 1980's looking downtube sticker just saying "the chill"

    https://www.bicyclestickers.co.uk/products/raleigh-technium-bicycle-decals

  • In other news, I used that little front rack for the first time on Saturday. The misses and I went for a short and easy ride to Beckenham Place Park and had #coffeeoutside. We are slowly easing back into cycling after covid and this was just right.
    I packed seat pads, a gas cooker, a wind shield, Aeropress, extra layers etc.


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  • Haha, the chill. That's great!

    Just gonna ditch the whole design, let it rust and write "Ronnie Wagon" on the downtube with a sharpie, put the shazam in the rear. Done.

    src

  • those Paul levers <3

  • The Fairlight could be built into a rideable state very soon.
    I ended up getting a set of Schwalbe G-ONE Allround 650b x 2.25" tyres of here. I already considered them and now I got two for the price of one or two for less than a single Ultradynamico Mars JFF.
    Pretty wild to think about the fact that my gravel bike runs the same tyre width as my MTB and even has slightly more clearance in the rear ¯_(ツ)_/¯.
    I used a paint marker to black out most of the tyre branding. I might paint over all of it in the end.

    Now that the question of tyres is of the plate there are two more things I am undecided about.

    1. Polish the crank arms yes or no
    2. Handlebar tape

    For the handlebar tape, I want something cloth or woven I think. I really liked the woven bar tape I had on the drops on the Raleigh but the colours won't be right. I looked at Newbaums Padded Cloth tape to see if I could match the purple Hope bits with Newbaums eggplant but I think it's a no. Otherwise something beige or khaki?
    The misses says something with a pattern would be good but I can't find a pattern colour combo I like on this bike.

    src: Woodscyclery


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  • I ended up getting a set of Schwalbe G-ONE Allround 650b x 2.25" tyres of here.

    I used a paint marker to black out most of the tyre branding. I might paint over all of it in the end.

    1. Polish the crank arms yes or no

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  • I think if you had a black spider/chainring then polishing the cranks would look good, but as its already silver leave them imo.

  • I wouldn't bother with the cranks... Really matches up and looks great!!

  • agreed, cranks look hot

  • Looks so good, and they are such good tyres. I agree with Spotter - black arm and silver spider looks great with the other mix of components - like the RD.


    I go back and forth on tan walls on 650b - looks great on 700 road tyres but I like my horizons. Also peep the stealth Arkane logo - looks great.

    Also I think the dark chocolate tape will look luxurious with the orange and the purple. I think I will get some for my Faran.


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  • Thanks, everyone!

    Yeah, I like how black rims with black tyres makes the wheels look massive. It's a truck. I like the tan walls on my MTB but this has to be black.

  • You're doing great work

    I just noticed the silver spokes and nipples, definitely black arm/ silver spider mix.

  • Yeah, the recipe for this bike is very similar to the MTB.

    A cool single colour paint job
    Silver finishing kit
    Small accenting anodized bits

    Wheelsets are both black shot-blasted Arkane rims with stealth logo, silver nipple and spokes and silver hope hubs with hope discs


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  • A bit late to the party, but I also vote for leaving the crank arms as they are.
    They look awesome!

    I've been thinking about buying a set of those Easton cranks for a while now.
    I've never used the Cinch direct mount system, can you rotate the chainring how you want?
    Looking at pictures it looks like both crank spline and chainring interface are not keyed.

  • The cranks are great! The aluminium version at least. I read about people stripping the pedal threads on the carbon one.
    I think technically you could turn these third-party chainrings. Mine (superstar components) came with an engraved maker where the cranks are supposed to be.

    You can't rotate the 1x original chainrings though. They have a bit of an inset.

  • This looks cracking.

  • We interrupt the regularly scheduled programming to bring you this breaking news.
    The media ban on the 1992 GT Karakoram Elite I built for my partner is lifted and I proudly present this little ripper. Have some pictures. Enjoy.

    The before:


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  • After taking it apart, cleaning, greasing, replacing and reworking some bits and then making it dirty again:


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  • Also available with lens flares.


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  • In Progress


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  • Nice orange highlights on the GT, looks great. This is an excellent thread.

  • How is the fairlight going?

  • The Fairlight still sits dry in the living room. After a comment on here somewhere from @bur70n_ about using ceramic coating on his new Stayer OG+ I got curious.
    I bought some of that unicorn piss in a bottle (£45 and it's tiny) from wax is dead.
    The idea is that it makes your frame hydrophobic so that mud doesn't stick to it that much and apparently it also prevents some light scratches.
    After putting it on it needs to cure for at least 24hrs so I was pushing that until I had enough time and decent weather.
    It's all coated now and put back together and damn that coating is slick. You can really feel it. I tried to put on some clear frame protection stickers but nothing sticks to it anymore :D.

    I am hoping to give the bike a first spin on the weekend. There are some issues I need to sort though.

    1. Indexing the gears
    2. My brake adapter doesn't work on this frame so I'll have to use a trp Spyre from the parts box in the front for now
    3. I am completely overthinking the bar tape choice and nothing I want is available. I got some quality rewrapple black tape I can apply in the meantime
    4. Finally I need to find out the correct bb spacer combination for Hope BSA 30 bb and the Easton EA90 cranks. This is a bit of a mystery to me. According to this chart from Hope I should use 2 x 1mm spacer for Road cranks (91mm over bearing width) and 2 x 2.5mm for MTB cranks (96.5mm over bearing width). I tried both and Road is too loose and MTB seems a bit tight. Then I found this for cinch cranks which state 92.6 +- 1mm. So should I use 1 x 1mm + 1 x 2.5mm spacer? Which one would go on the drive side?


  • Your welcome, I think haha..

    Makes a great difference when riding in crap weather and then just hosing down the bike afterwards.

    I used IGL but would use Wax is Dead next time!! Also seen some stuff that heals it's self and if badly scratched will disappear after being rinsed.

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Oddos Raleigh Ronniewagon, Brexit Crust Wanker Hybrid, Gravel Bieks and anodized aluminum

Posted by Avatar for Oddo @Oddo

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