Home DIY

The gritty bits make me think lime too.

The stick is because houses used to be grown from seeds. Or something.

@amey help a brother out 🙏🏿.

How long are they? They may be enough. Would you mind if I cut them to a smaller size at yours to make them easier to transport?

New place has two ceiling roses, one of which is ideally placed for a ceiling mounted projector.

Can I take un-switched 240v from a ceiling rose somehow? Can I still use the other rose as a switched light, presuming they’re on the same circuit?

Guess I could always just put a smart bulb in the remaining fitting and keep the light switch on for projector power.

Can I take un-switched 240v from a ceiling rose somehow?

Yes

Can I put an HDMI signal through the light switches…?

I'll measure later - at least 3m though. We can cut them, no problem.

You need any other wood? I may have matching spare.

If you have loop in and loop out circuits at the '3 plate' in the ceiling rose. You just connect to the loop in loop out.

Hopefully the projector doesn't draw more current than the lighting circuit is fused for.

No experience of this thing but apparently you can send HDMI over power lines.

https://www.cablesdirect.co.uk/hdmi-over-powerline-extender-p2808

240V is 240V, however...

Lighting circuit might (would be if installed nowadays) be on 1.5mm cable and a 6A breaker. Projectors are usually plugged into a socket on 2.5mm cable and anything up to a 32A breaker.

You might want to look at the numbers to make sure your projector is not going to draw enough current that would cause the thinner lighting cables to overheat, especially if they run through any insulation. Or that it is not going to continually throw the trip.

A better solution* (if access allows), would be to run a fused spur from one of the socket circuits on the floor above** with a fuse suitable for the projector. I would want to be going in from the floor above anyway to make sure there's enough support for the projector.

*in my limited DIY view.
**just because it would be physically closer to the ceiling than the sockets on the same floor. It would be neat if you could have a switched, fused spur next to your lightswitch purely for the projector.

How easy would it be to add cupboard doors to some framed alcove shelving? Ideally flush with the existing shelves. They run floor to ceiling and I need somewhere to hide wires!

Was hoping this was straight forward but the two quotes I’ve had start at £1k. Making me wonder how far wrong I could go with a jigsaw and some MDF

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pretty sure there is some hair in there too

I would imagine general plaster over lime isn't ideal but most of the wall seems solid and I dont really fancy taking it all off. I just wondered if I should take any extra steps or do anything different to a general plaster repair.

I would doubt you'd get a presentable finish with a jigsaw.

At minimum, you'd need:

1. Measuring equipment / square
   
2. Circular saw
   
3. Clamps / glue
   
4. Jointing jig (dowel / biscuit etc)
   
5. Chisel / hammer for the hinges
   
6. Drill + bits for the handles
   
7. RO sander / hand sanding blocks
   
8. Paint - primer, top coat & associate brushes / rollers etc
   
   

If you're thinking of hiding the Beam in there, you'd need some acoustically transparent material to go on the front.

1. Clamps / glue
   
2. Jointing jig (dowel / biscuit etc)
   

If you are OK with a pretty average finish, couldn't you get away without these? Start with a large enough piece of MDF or a larger cupboard door that you chop the top / bottom / sides off. Maybe glue or nailgun a batten on the back to reduce warping?

I've a decent chunk of that kit but not the circular or jointing jig!

I can't remove the shelves easily as they're screwed in from the sides which had me thinking about doing it in situ and adapting what's already there. Crudely I was thinking of using the jigsaw to take c.19mm off the bottom two shelves (doors to hide any sins) and making the doors out of MDF.

Would also move the beam up a shelf

not the circular

You don't need one.

I got a couple of sheets of ply from Selco. 4 cuts for free, 50p for each additional one. Feel like I remember B&Q being £1 per cut when I got some mdf done years ago.

Maybe have a look at that Charlie DIY wardrobe build to see if you could do something similar for the doors.

Overlay doors would work without changing the shelves. You would need to check they would work on the side nearest the wall although there is a workaround for that if not.

Hafele have tons of hinges with varying specifications. Then just cut some mdf to size and drill the holes for the hinges in the right place on the back.

Anyone have any tips for making stair stringers for a deck. Needs to cover a drop of about 1700mm i think, premade ones seem pretty steep in angle and i'd rather go for something around 36-40 degrees.

Would making them up out 10x2 be okay?

Why have doors to floor level?
Remove middle shelf and cut 18mm off the back, refit.

Measure opening for doors from top of skirting to bottom of top shelf. Divide width by 2 and adjust dimension for any gaps you want, 3mm is good.

Go to b&q. Buy a half sheet of MDF and ask them to cut to the size of your two doors.

Buy recess cabinet hinges and appropriate drillbit.

Paint.

Fit.

People who carve slots in skirting are the devil.

They're 3.90m

Only going to floor level as the skirting on this wall is permanently coming off and I’m going to open up the bricked up fireplace.

Tips all gratefully received - going to give it a whirl and try inset doors.

Assuming that removing and altering the shelf is better than trying to do anything in situ, how best to remove? I’m thinking multi tool + flush blade to cut it out and through the screws that I can’t get to

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Had to make a guess at the size but somewhere like this would do a pair of doors with hinge holes for about £60...

https://doors2size.co.uk/custom_doors/

Is it definitely screwed from the side? If glued then tap it lose with a mallet, otherwise yes use the multitool to remove.
Would you consider separate doors for each shelf?
With the amount of hassle this is looking like overlay doors/hinges might be better than inset.

Idiot man-child lodger has scratched the fuck out of the stainless cooker top by cleaning* it with a pan scourer.

Is there any way to recover or repair the surface? It's something of a treasured possession of my girlfriend's.

*it's still fucking covered in grease

Doubtful.