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Yes. Need for Pre-App is dependent on how risky your proposed works are (any local precedents?), along with what borough project is in (box ticking exercise for many inner city boroughs), along with property fundamentals (listed and/or conservation area?). Regardless of the above, it is good to be able to discuss the project/risky elements with a Case Officer, and assuming you have a solid application gives you good steer for the formal application.
Pre-Apps are more expensive than a formal application (application fees), and have no statutory timeframe so can drag on dependent on the local authority/officer. Advice received is only as good as the information submitted so likely to be more expensive from a design team fees perspective as well.
Always recommend paying for a Pre-App with office meeting whether virtual or on site to present/discuss the project rather than just receive written feedback. Obviously your proposal will need to relate to planning policy, but it is also worth pushing the envelope of what you are looking to do so that you can appear to concede on items yet still, hopefully, end up with what you want.
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Thanks, that’s all really helpful. I reckon I can do the necessary drawings for a pre-app. It’s a toss up between doing a single story extension within PD or a 1.5 storey ext. that’d need planning. I can draw the bigger version and see how it flies with the planning people before committing to too much detail & expense.
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Does your LA offer drop ins when you can go and speak to a planning officer? We arranged a 10 min slot before applying for planning permission but obviously councils vary massively (this was Derbyshire).
Obviously we ignored the advice and were refused permission and eventually went with their (boring) suggestion.
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I never even got into it but it was a lot
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If you know exactly what you want, then you can always go to a sawmill for custom.
EnglishwoodlandstimberSutton timber also do flooring, I don't see Doug fir but if you asked I'm sure they would. Last time I asked they could make unfinished ash engineered for about £60/m², with an impressive 5.5mm wear layer.
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No experience with them, but we got a good relationship with a builder who does most of the work in our flat and opt for them to do our Wren kitchen instead of Wren’s sub contractor.
The thing is that the builder that kitchen companies hired tend to just do that: build kitchen.
The person we choose to build our kitchen, does not just that but also the preparation, modifications, and changes that not parts of thr kitchen (such as floor, extractor piping, radiator).
It cost more to hire an individual but it gave us reassurance that it’ll be made well and can make changes along the way when needed.
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We've got a howdens kitchen with an awkward narrow double height cupboard. It's hard to use and we'd like a pull out larder (I think they're called?) like this:
I assume having the doors stuck on is the ideal move so you're not opening then pulling, plus ours is next to the wall. But as our bin in near there I'd like it split rather than one piece.
Where do I start?
Do I need a Howdens kit? Last time I looked at the price of an extra shelf it was ludicrously expensive, so I'm sort of expecting it to be 30% of the cost of a new kitchen.
Are there aftermarket sets I can buy? If so what to avoid, etc.
Any pointers appreciated.
Cheers.
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Find something that works on the Hafele site then call M&D Components or East Coast Kitchens and quote a product code for a price. All these units probably fit into standard spacing 5mm shelf pin holes so it shouldn't be too hard. Just like really complicated IKEA.
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Not really considered for single-storey extensions in a typical street setup like your reference diagram with PD rights contradicting your reference diagram, but giving guidance on extension height. Daylight and sunlight measures are definitely considered for taller or two-storey+ extensions.
You do see extensions that taper down to the boundary wall line, and these are often setout by a 45degree line taken from the nearest habitable ground floor window in elevation, or local authority design guidance.
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Doesn't apply if within permitted development rules, but for planning it does I believe.
When we applied for planning we had to change the design of ours slightly to daylighting angles.
Wouldn't let us go 4m out along the length, so we took a 45 degree corner out, and put a full height window in.
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Not an extension, but lots of knocky-downy stuff going on this week at our new house.
French doors with an open/unglazed transom light above for sticking some plants on in the first gap, U-shaped kitchen will be open on the right behind it (current back door will get bricked up with a letterbox-type window just above the worktop), and bifolds out to the yard on the left (was going to go french doors again, but the size makes bifolds easier/less frame-y, and cheaper as it turns out).
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45 degree rule is used for planning permission. Only relevant to neighbouring habitable rooms tho - not bathrooms kitchens etc.
Permitted development will let you do a 3m rear ex on a terrace - with a max flat roof eaves of 3m I think. But check the booklet for all the rules.
IMO In many ways the PD rights are fucking local character but that ship has sailed and every *persons house is their castle I guess
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How do I bathroom / kitchen / extension? etc.
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@chrisbmx116
Anyone done a pre-planning app? Any tips?