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corian
Just my 2p but imo it's the best type of worktop. It can be mended, doesn't rot and allows you to have a moulded sink and lip(?) to the splashback to prevent water ingress.
Although if you don't have the latter two, then some of it's usefulness is lost.
As to the cost, it's reassuringly pricey but often won't fetch much 2nd hand as you'd often need to get a corian pro in to retrofit it unless it's a like-for-like fit or very standard. Try and make sure you get the samples and the colour codes from the current owners. If you sell it, it'll help. If you keep it and need a repair, it'll help.
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well its white which i guess will help, i haven’t seen it in the flesh yet though.
pondered a bit more and i did think of paying somebody to remove it and then i’ll just take the under cabinets off the wall and use them again for the refit
maybe even just move the sink ones so they can fit the central heating pipes.
having seen one kitchen being done in my place i figured the real skill is in the fitting of the units and scribing/fixing the filler panels etc.
basically the fiddling where things are not square/level and making it look ‘right’ the rest is just plumbing/electrics/tiling.
got to make a call on the financing in a week or so and don’t want to run out of wedge before its’s all done or over borrow (healthy LTV so plan is to pay up and do it all before we move in so want it done as quickly as we can) -
Fantastic, thanks!
Another query for anyone/everyone - bathroom (currently being disassembled) has floorboards (under ply, under tiles) as the OG floor (house is c.1906), and one of my wife's biggest pet peeves is thresholds and steps up/down into rooms.
I was looking at using something like Ditra matting, or it's cheaper cousin Dural Ci - and playing with the idea of taking the floorboards up, laying 18 or 24mm (?) of ply on to the joists, then the mat, then floor tiles to attempt to keep the level as close to the rest of the landing.
Joists are spaced every 40cm or so - does that sound feasible? Or am i missing something silly (other than fact I appear to have paid £££ for a civil engineering degree where I appear to have learned next to nothing about structures...)
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18mm ply on the joists would be pretty standard. Normal floorboard is about the same depth though so it doesn't change much as far as the mat is concerned. Fitting a mat under larger format tiles is pretty normal these days.
I prefer not to tile suspended floors at all but tiling is not a speciality for me, if you want a wet room then you don't have much choice.
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We've just done the same to our bathroom - as airhead says it's pretty standard. I chucked some extra noggins (from one joist to the other) in between the joists to try and stiffen as much as possible then 18mm ply went on top, followed by cheap ditra alternative, then tiles. you still end up with a bit of a threshold step though.
In a previous bathroom a builder did, we wanted the tiles to be the same level as the adjacent original flooring. the builder put battens 18mm below the joist then sat pieces of 18mm ply inbetween joists. i think they then just put the membrane straight onto this (was a wet room) and then tiled.
With hindsight this was a shit idea and i had to regrout every 6 months because the grout lines popped - on a tangent, i would highly recommend "fix-a-floor" though to fix loose tiles.
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Might be worth considering vinyl/cork/rubber flooring as an alternative to tiles. Amtico do some good vinyl tiles available with 'grout lines' to imitate tiles.
Dalsouple/Amtico/Marmoleum are decent brands in that arena.
https://www.amtico.com/flooring/products/collections/amtico-form/
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we have granorte cork in our living spaces - it's amazing. here's what they say about bathroom use:
Are cork floors suitable for a bathroom? - Floating floors are not recommended for a bathroom, however glue down tiles can be used. Precautions should be taken to protect the floor from excessive spills and water. After installation of the tiles, it is important that you seal the perimeter of the room, prior to installing moulding or wall base. This will prevent water damage getting into the sub-floors or walls. It will be necessary to seal the floor with at least two coats of varnish.
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Cork really divides opinion but it ticks all the boxes for a bathroom. Warm to the touch and eco friendly. It's probably the easiest to fit too.
If you decided to have cork you could possibly just use a thin ply board on top of the current floorboards, screwed down at 200mm centres, fill and sand over the screw heads. You need to have pretty even floorboards to go that route and it might not work with vinyl tiles where they show any undulation in the subfloor.
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Another upvote for cork here, we have glue down tiles in our bathroom for over a decade now.
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just asked for a sample of this funky stuff, shall see how it feels (asked for both vinyl and 'Flotex')
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What is going on here? I've missed this but it sounds like madness, is there a thread anywhere?
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This looks awesome.
Who was it (architect wise) who did something similar recently with white taps and reeded glass screen?
terlg
Howard
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Mr_Smyth
Airhead
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M4xime
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Home DIY
Posted by
@hippy
not sure if this if for DIY or homes thread.
if purchase goes through the kitchen isn’t to our taste, it does however have decent units (no idea what make but hoping ikea or howdens) and very nice white corian worktop. there is a huge washing machine sticking out as the owner has a child so i guess its a big load and on all the time.
there are no wall cabinets just a cooker hood, one side of the kitchen will be redone with ‘coffee corner’ 30cm deep and lots of sockets for 2x grinders, espresso machine etc. some remodelling to fit a freestanding fridge freezer and a few shelves.
we are going to get some kind of wood,fenix custom fronts/plykea doors and a couple of wall cabinets.
the floor tiles and spalshback tiles are not old but they need to go.
question is do we rip it all out or do we remove kickboards and get it retiled? ill strip the splashback and maybe get glass or different tiles, coffee corner will be units to suit (howdens/ikea) and whatever fronts we want.
a built in unit will somehow have to be fitted where the washing machine is.
is it worth trying to keep the corian? no idea how much this stuff is.
there will be some central heating pipework going in so a fiddle for the fitter to work under the sink with existing cabinets. there is one filler panel touching the floor where the washing machine is (built in oven on other side.
budget we allowed was 15k to redo it but if a remodel is less than 10 then it makes sense.
anyone faced a similar dilemma before?
any tradespeople been asked and said ‘no way’?