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Amazing - I’ve wondered for a while if anyone has tried to get data on what happens to a surfer wiping out in xxxl surf - like -how deep - for how long - no. of body rotations - time submerged - blood o2 - heart rate - how far you get dragged down the line etc.
Anything over should high beachie and it’s a hard pass from me now - I got into some bother in big stormy surf last year and it was not fun.
video of some of the big waves, amazing cliffs of water
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fD1o-2sNVbQ