Yeah I did end up using the old bearing but as I say the tolerances meant that it didn't really work. even with the second bearing on top you couldn't hit the face squarely because of the axle being in the way. Its one of those jobs where you need 3 set of hands to hold everything in place, hold the wheel and hit all with a hammer.
As I remember I ended on the with the opposite side of the wheel bottled in to the bike frame on the wrong side of the rear tringle and 3/4 other bearing on top of the new bearing to clear the axle and then using the hub bolt to tighten it down to seat the new bearing in place.
Stack it up, hub shell, new bearing, old bearing, old bearing from the other side if necessary, suitably sized socket from a socket set, preferably drive end up so you can hammer on it and get reasonably even drive.
Yeah I don't currently have a socket set but I did wonder if that would be a better bet than a proper bearing driver kit because there more likely to be able to clear the axle and have a hole that would allow them to go over the axle. That sounds like the way forward, thanks
Yeah I did end up using the old bearing but as I say the tolerances meant that it didn't really work. even with the second bearing on top you couldn't hit the face squarely because of the axle being in the way. Its one of those jobs where you need 3 set of hands to hold everything in place, hold the wheel and hit all with a hammer.
As I remember I ended on the with the opposite side of the wheel bottled in to the bike frame on the wrong side of the rear tringle and 3/4 other bearing on top of the new bearing to clear the axle and then using the hub bolt to tighten it down to seat the new bearing in place.