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• #2627
Anyone got a very ballpark figure for how much it might cost to lift floorboards, remove rads, install underfloor heating and insulation on the ground floor of a Victorian terrace?
Almost certainly enough ££££ to make you wonder why you would risk it.
Maybe do the insulation but keep the rads?
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• #2628
Sad face. Removing the rads would look a lot better and allow me to do more interesting things with furniture and shelving. But you're probably right
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• #2629
Ballpark for just the insulation?
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• #2630
in before @chrisbmx116
https://home.by.me/ -
• #2631
Removing the rads would look a lot better and allow me to do more interesting things with furniture and shelving.
Yeah I have this. Might be able to side step it a bit with column rads.
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• #2633
Ballpark for just the insulation?
Our including some reclaimed timber that need replacing (and tighten up the gap).
You're looking at around £1500 each room (4 by 5 metres), this does not includes us sanding and oiling the floor ourselves.
Don't bother with underfloor heating, insulating the floor make signifcant difference that when I turn off the heating before going to be, it was comfortable in the morning (as in no longer freezing cold).
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• #2634
Almost certainly enough ££££ to make you wonder why you would risk it.
For me underfloor heating installation would be about preparing for air-source heat pumps. Kind of feels like it will happen one day.
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• #2635
True....(maybe, Victorian places / suspended floors + air-source + wet underfloor not exactly bedfellows) but I would do that as part of a big renovation job all in one go I think.
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• #2636
Have you looked into how well UFH will work with wood on top? Wood is an excellent insulator.
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• #2637
I agree, underfloor heating absolutely worth the effort although it's no longer necessary for a heat pump installation as heat pumps are well capable of supplying temperatures for radiators these days, it is worthwhile to upgrade to modern aluminium radiators though.
@hugo7 floorboards are no problem as long as there is a liquid screed poured around the UFH and the boards are glued rather than nailed to eliminate any air pocket...
@Howard the key bit is the screed, you'll want to get a recessed plywood floor between the joists for the pipework to sit on and then liquid screed, something like Levelrock is perfect as it actually forms a structural bond with the plywood and will result in nice quiet floors too as opposed to the usual springy, noisy efforts in these type of builds...
I'm installing a Viessmann air source HP in our apartment at the moment and I'm not bothering with underfloor heating (although concrete floors would make installation significantly less pleasant than in the Victorian instances above), it's been enough of a mission to get the pipework from the front garden to the DHW cylinder location where the indoor unit will be going so I'm just going to replace the crummy c.2004 radiators with some nice aluminium column radiators (Celi Aphrodite) and call it a day at that.
I probably will put some UFH in bathroom but this will necessitate tracking the floor for the pipework which is a shitty, dusty job... luckily I only have about 3msq of floor space to do so it won't be the worst in the world...
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• #2638
Sanding the floor is £250-300 to hire a sander, but it save us £250 not hiring someone to do it ourselves.
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• #2639
Nice job on sanding Ed! I have that job coming up in a few weeks after I get the pipework for the heat pump in and we get our floorboards installed! Did you just use a hand sander for the corners and tricky bits?
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• #2640
Kind of feels like it will happen one day.
Right now I can’t afford that, it’s way way way too expensive.
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• #2641
Yup, we got a small orbital sander too to smooth out some detail.
Finish product.
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• #2642
interesting - i always wondered how underfloor insulation worked with a void underneath (just not enough to actually research it!)
is the membrane supported by boards underneath, or just stapled to the joists under tension?end product looks fantastic by the way!
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• #2643
The membrane is hung by the suspended timber and does not go all the way to the ground, the rockwool stuff is well priced and work well.
Having a void allow the building to breath, bit like wearing a fleece, they’re not wind proof but still keep you warm and not damp.
This is particularly important given Victorian building need to breathe to prevent damp.
We opt for wooden floor simply because we like them, I can imagine it would be even more insulated with carpet installed if you wish.
We originally going for Kingspan, which are more expensive but due to them being involved in the death of 72 people in Grenfell, I steer clear of them.
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• #2644
Insluating the kitchen is different, we opt for new wood as it’s much cheaper and it gonna get painted, may be worth looking into this if you wish to go for carpet.
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• #2645
The wall lights any idea what they might be called? Or where I could find something similar?
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• #2646
Ed, would you mind listing the products you used for the underfloor insulation for each layer/membrane bit? TIA!
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• #2647
I googled 'reeded glass wall light bathroom' and a few similar looking things came up - £££ though!
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• #2648
Ah ha thanks.......... obviously it'd be expensive, sigh!!
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• #2650
I’ll have a look, insulating is Rockwool, same stuff you’d use for the attic.
I basically hired a local builder who sort it out for us, he said this is a fairly common work that tend to be done in London due to the number of Victorian houses here.
Anyone got a very ballpark figure for how much it might cost to lift floorboards, remove rads, install underfloor heating and insulation on the ground floor of a Victorian terrace?