I didn't notice that specifically, as we were just on a single pitch and anchoring on fixed gear at the top, so screws only stayed in whilst the pitch was led and then a top rope established.
But I tried placing a screw into an old hole and immediately noticed how loose it was and realised on my own, without having to ask the guide, that it was a very bad idea.
The guide only told me off once, and that was for using both hands to place a screw when I was stood on a very secure ledge. He said that no matter how secure your feet feel, you should always keep a hand on just in case you slip or wobble. You don't want to end up without your axes, and it's harder to grab them in a panic than a normal rock hold.
I didn't notice that specifically, as we were just on a single pitch and anchoring on fixed gear at the top, so screws only stayed in whilst the pitch was led and then a top rope established.
But I tried placing a screw into an old hole and immediately noticed how loose it was and realised on my own, without having to ask the guide, that it was a very bad idea.
The guide only told me off once, and that was for using both hands to place a screw when I was stood on a very secure ledge. He said that no matter how secure your feet feel, you should always keep a hand on just in case you slip or wobble. You don't want to end up without your axes, and it's harder to grab them in a panic than a normal rock hold.