Home DIY

Ceeform!!!! That's the term I couldn't find for the life of me, cheers. Doubt I'll have an oven in there. I mean, I know I'm fat, but I don't think I'll have the urge to knock up a lasgane while I'm ruining some perfectly good joinery. If I do, I'll designate the shed as number 120b and update my deliveroo settings.

You can use the 1.5 and put a 6amp fuse in the plug until you get the secondary cu. RCD contention is a thing. You really only need one on a circuit and your kitchen circuit has one already so that's fine. If you fit a couple of 2 gang outlets where the CU will be then cable can be moved over when the cu is fitted.

Sometimes baffling are the considerations about earthing. I'm not going to risk describing any!

Make sure you consider the earth path. CUs are all metal now I think, it needs an earth path back to the mains or a local spike . Along with the metal strands in the armoured cable.

None of this is said with any electricians knowledge.

yep. works fine, seems accurate, compact, lightweight, cheap.

Cheers

On the laser level chat, how do you actually mount the lazer level?

Ie I want shelves 1.5m up a wall and want to drill holes how do I get the line to show that high?

I've found using this bessey clamp on the door in the room works quite well in those situations.

or failing that, just put it on top of a pile of stuff the correct height.
they self level so it doesn't really matter what you put it onto.

You can get poles with mounts on for some of them. They work the same way as the plasterboard holding poles. Tripod is also useful in some cases.

They have got expensive though.

https://www.uktoolcentre.co.uk/products/leica-geosystems-clr290-floor-to-ceiling-laser-pole.html?sku=935308&gclid=Cj0KCQiArt6PBhCoARIsAMF5waiTYz4X-eQt8sXnfhqKfHOgPma-0kOp3_J4uI5hOqqOeVymKqJzyQoaAtk_EALw_wcB

If I'm doing a kitchen or bathroom the laser is normally on all the time for a few weeks so for me it was a worthwhile investment.

My 9” hitachi angle grinder has stopped working.
I’ve taken the handle apart to get to the trigger switch. Using a voltage detector pen there is a voltage when plugged in, but when I pull the trigger there is nothing. What’s going on?

Tripod, put on some other shelves/stepladder rung, etc or, and this is what I normally favour for higher stuff, one of these clamps
https://www.ffx.co.uk/product/Get/Bessey-Ste-Lh-4008158041469-Laser-Holder-Support-Bar-Bracket

Mine's just a cheapo one but it's one of the things I use the most, particularly for stuff like this

Okay. So the overall principle is put it on something high enough, rather than there being some angling up trick I'm missing.

I've got my granny's travel tripod from the 70s which worked when we were masking paint lines. Compact, but weights a tonne - which I assume is why it's still in mint condition 😊

Depending on how high, clamp to door edge or even light fitting. I even taped a cardboard tube to some steps to get a line 9ft off the ground.

👍

The trigger is just a switch isn’t it, so the switch must be broke on the trigger if your getting voltage to it

But why would there be no voltage before the trigger when it’s pulled?

So I have some isolated wiring in my loft that used to power an electric shower that has been removed.

It currently goes down to a 40A breaker on my RCD unit. I'm never going to refit an electric shower here so would prefer to repurpose the cabling to add a plug socket to power lighting and network equipment in the loft space.

Can I power a single double gang plug from its own breaker if I lower the fuse rating?

That would be notifiable as you are making a change to the CU, but I don't see why it wouldn't be possible. Lower rated MCB (16A) at the CU and double check the cable size. Just because it was running a shower, don't trust that it is correct unless you put it in yourself. As @Airhead said, it would likely need to be 2.5mm2 to be able to safely run power to the sockets without overheating, especially if it's going through/under insulation. You'll likely want to make sure you've gotten rid of any potential switch line to the shower too, lest you end up making that live when wiring up the socket.

Thanks for the info.

where that radiator from?
i know there was radiator chat in this and the other thread but i can find the posts with links.

What's the worst thing in the world and why is it motorised valves?

This is what I ended up doing.
The adapters are the outrageously priced Grohe ones posted by @Grumpy_Git

1 Attachment

I need to measure the wiring but from what I remember it's a chunky one with thick cores.

Just come across these :
https://www.screwfix.com/p/british-general-13a-2-gang-sp-switched-metal-clad-passive-rcd-switched-socket-with-white-inserts/4714P?kpid=4714P&ds_rl=1241687&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1249401&ds_kid=92700031521281108&msclkid=b35b5c38900818090c1b3dc1902d9b55&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=MPX_UK_SHP_MAN_S_ALL_Electrical%20%26%20Lighting&utm_term=4584413733073785&utm_content=S%20-%20Wiring%20Accessories&ds_rl=1245250&gclid=b35b5c38900818090c1b3dc1902d9b55&gclsrc=3p.ds

Is this an easier approach and means less messing with the CU?

I would unplug and do a continuity test across the switch for each pole.

I assume you are getting zero volts as the switch is shorting the two lines (through the motor) have you checked the brushes?

That would definitely be an @Airhead question