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How do you connect it to the extension lead? Just stick a plug on the "input tail" of the shed CU?

Don't tell anyone, but I just have a very long single extension lead from the outside weatherproof socket (also on our kitchen ring) into the shed, but taken up high and carefully routed/cable clipped to avoid damage etc., with a multi-socket bar plugged in to that inside the shed. I definitely want a more permanent/approved set up with its own CU but I'm realistically careful about not leaving anything plugged in, not overloading it etc. There's an armoured cable waiting to be connected at both ends when the electrician comes for a bigger job!

Then we got into the older stuff installed through 80-90's by various men with van types.

This was a bad time for construction. The industry was moving away from traditional materials and techniques to modern stuff while simultaneously learning to cope with the fact that a man from the council wouldn't be dropping round regularly to make sure you're doing the job right. Lots of stuff was got very wrong and often with the best intentions.

What's the go to screw for solid walls? Need to put up some shelving with rawl plugs?

Sounds like an episode of cowboy builders

Would make sense!

Changing a switch the other day and I come across this scene from a woodlouse horror movie.

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Anyone interested in some sheets of ply (6 and 9mm) plus some long Mdf boards (22mm)? Collection in SE26

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Ooh could use that ply, thanks - how big are the sheets, would they fit in a normal car or would I need a van etc?

Help!
The Grohe Minta mixer tap has finally arrived (thanks for recommendations ages ago)
However, the plumbing isn’t compatible currently.
The water feed ball valves (red) are 15mm and the hoses attached to the tap are 3/8” (green)
I can’t find the right coupler. Any suggestions for what I should do please?!
I have had a broken kitchen tap for the last 3months and I was so looking forward to getting this sorted!

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You’d probably need a roof rack for the long bit which is about 2.4 x 0.9m
The other two are roughly square, 1.2-1.5m

At least the switch is on the wall paper. My parents have a faulty light switch (probably, might be something else) that has no screws holding it to the wall, just many decades of wall paper. It's impossible to remove to find the horrors behind it without making a mess of the wall paper which apparently makes them more sad than having a 2 way switch that doesn't 2 way properly.

I hate people that decorate without lifting electrical accessories.

Maybe 15mm Compression by 3/8" BSP Male Iron Thread European Flexible Tap Adapters (Pair)? [edit: probably not, I think they are compression fitting]

Yeah I think you can spot an olive in the photo that looks through the hole so that's not going to work. Thanks for the reply anyway :)

Could you replace the tails with a 15mm pair?

By tails do you mean the hoses that attach the the tap? If so, no I don't think they come out. I tried to unscrew them but they didn't budge

?

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Sadly not. They are compression. Thanks for the reply though! :)

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I need the nutI think...It needs to be male on one side and female on the other.

Re: the temporary shed CU set up. I am more buoyed by reading and realising that caravans etc use a similar set up for hooking up to the mains. My plans are as follows;

• Get a small CU with a 68A RCD and have the inlet terminated with a 13A plug that I can connect to my long extension when I want to use power. Fully disconnect when not in use.
  
• Fit a 6A MCB for lights (probably only a single LED strip light to start with).
  
• 1 gang 1 way switch for said light.
  
• 2 x 16A MCBs for two socket circuits, 2 x double pole double sockets on each circuit.
  
• 1.5mm T&E for the lighting circuit
  
• 2.5mm T&E for the sockets
  
  

The above would only really be a fancy extension lead set up really, with the CU/RCDs being a bit redundant as the whole thing is coming off a 13A plug on the MCB/kitchen socket circuit anyway (external, weatherproof socket outside the kitchen).

The long term plan would be to run a proper SWA cable off it's own circuit out there and then upgrade the socket MCBs if I want to run something beefy or a heater or something. Having everything already in place at the shed end will hopefully make it an easy swap. But this won't happen until the kitchen is done.

I could just use an extension lead full stop until the full cable is run, but having a separate light switch and sockets on the walls would be nice from the get go, and I get to play around with where they are best placed. I can then keep the extension lead by the back door, plug it into the external socket and unspool it as I walk down to the shed, plug the CU tail in and it's ready to go.

Unless of course someone can tell me this will bring a pox upon my house and damn me for all eternity.

Doesn't adding a CU (which seems like a sensible approach to my entirely unqualified self) make it notifiable - even if not yet permanently wired in?

From my varied reading, only when it is connected directly to the main CU on it's own circuit (which I would absolutely get a spark to do and sign off/condemn my shed bodging), not when fed from the 13A socket. Again, happy to be pointed to the regs that say otherwise. For context, EICR passed 6 months ago and the spark installed the weatherproof socket at that time, so I'm confident it is fine.

There's a lot of information out there but most of the sparks or DIY forums descend into full garage door condescension or outright insults when similar questions are asked.

For example, this is how caravans are powered, and extension lead to a CU in the caravan. Are they notifiable?

most of the sparks or DIY forums descend into full garage door condescension or outright insults when similar questions are asked.

The levels of indignation at members of the public daring to change a lightbulb or unplug a kettle are amazing.