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• #2477
Idk what that would save you tho. But it would also stagger the purchase of your lights and wall sockets so you could keep an eye out for bargains and grab stuff when you see it.
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• #2478
How much do your reckon you’re ever likely to save doing that sort of thing? I always think the stress/inconvenience is just never likely to be worth it.
I am pretty useless at diy etc -
• #2479
Very little - as a percentage of the total conversion cost - I would have thought.
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• #2480
Suspect you could also have trouble getting electricians to sign off. My experience is they're not at all keen on touching others peoples work.
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• #2481
Just go bog standard loft company box, whatever cladding, windows, electrics, etc is cheapest.
Unless you're not working then paying pros to do it at the time is going to be cheaper than the cost of your time.
Loft companies throw up loads of lofts, if you're flexible and go with their easy route that's going to be the cheap option.
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• #2482
as a percentage of the total conversion cost
But surely we aren't talking about total % savings? We're talking about % savings on the difference between a DMI/TMH loft vs lofts4U.
So even taking off a few £k here and there makes a difference, as does spreading the cost.
As I said before with inflation and rates rising I think a two pronged approach of cancelling the bling accessories/purity of materials plus borrowing would be the way to go.
But it's all dependent on circumstances. For eg we would have struggled to borrow money after our first was born based on our work situation, whereas now we could. Likewise if you're someone who can increase their hours and get paid for it, then adding 20 or 30hrs to your week will probably be better vfm than DIYing those hours at night.
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• #2483
Oh I see - get L4U to do the structural stuff then fit it out to a high standard over time?
If inflation is a problem I wouldn't delay necessary purchases tbh.
But how feasible is this? You'd probably find you don't have the capability to fit it out to even a l4u standard let alone something more refined - unless you were DIY king to start with. You'd be pretty good by the end though...or dead!
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• #2484
Sneaking suspicion I've pulled a CYOA and not ordered an oven housing unit and may possibly require one:
This is the oven: https://www.neff-home.com/uk/productlist/ovens-compact-ovens/ovens/double-ovens/J1ACE4HN0B
Installation instructions from page 32:
https://media3.neff-international.com/Documents/9001580274_C.pdf
TBH it doesn't look like it needs legs or a unit but I may be being dim - certainly the electrician just told me it looks like it needs a housing unit.
What are my options if it does need one?
Do you see the colour of the housing unit when the door is closed (because I'll never get one in time for Weds).I could measure and leave a correct amount of space so I could order the correct one and install when it arrives (hopefully before Feb 2nd). Other?
Would love if I just needed 4 legs and to have done with but suspect I won't be so lucky.
See also the dishwasher - there's no housing unit, though I do have an appliance door. Don't have any legs - what do I need? https://www.neff-home.com/uk/productlist/dishwashers/fully-integrated-dishwashers/dishwasher-45cm-width/S975HKX20G
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• #2485
TBH - looks just like this will be the solution and the electrician doesn't know what he's talking about (which is another problem entirely).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GfluArZszng
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• #2486
Yes, you’ll need an oven housing. Albeit this is basically an empty car as on 4 legs as you say. At a pinch you could knock something together?
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• #2487
Why so ominous?
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• #2488
A turbo, with a bike and rider atop, is a quite unique* live load. I wouldn't recommend a cheap solution, to be honest.
*I know, something's either unique or not. You get what I mean.
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• #2489
Oven would have a housing
in IKEA land then this
https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/p/metod-base-cabinet-for-built-in-oven-sink-white-70213569/with this metal tray for the oven to sit on
https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/p/utrusta-bracket-for-oven-galvanised-10301960/I'd think you could just leave a gap and pop one in later. It's nothing fancy, just a housing. Could even grab an IKEA/B&Q/whatever one nearby as they'll all just be standard 60cm wide things
Dishwasher I don't think has a housing, that just has the custom door on the front and it sits on the floor, unless you've got an odd dishwasher
sure the dishwasher doesn't have legs on the underside that screw in/out to raise and lower it?
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• #2490
Re all the loft chat, if you’re considering insulating, plaster boarding, lining with ply/osb or considering hauling any full size boards up there, make sure you can get up stairs, round bends, through doors etc.
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• #2491
I assume your oven is at low level and not at waist height/part of a tall unit? Regardless, you will definitely need an oven housing and can't get away with legs alone to the underside of the oven. It is unlikely that you will see the carcass once fully installed although product depending there can be a dummy panel/door underneath.
Ease of installation depends on your oven output and whether it needs to be hardwired. If not, I don't see why your electrician couldn't install to get everything working and then unplug until the carcass is delivered in place.
Nothing is needed for the dishwasher. Fits into an open space (45cm in your case) with worktop and kickplate running past. You may need to have a notch in the kickplate to allow the door to open but that's relatively straightforward.
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• #2493
I'm amazed those runners (or rather the screws used to fix the runners to the adjacent units) will take the weight of an oven!
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• #2494
I'm hoping to be amazed that they will rather than have to get yet another unit! But equally mine looks almost identical to that and comes with those parts and that's an official video / the instructions seem to show the same thing etc.
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• #2495
Best of luck!
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• #2496
Looks like you mount it in a tall cabinet in the standard way - but doing undercounter you use the special brackets. The face dims match a standard 720h x 600w door. I guess you then span the plinth across directly under the unit. The website render looks like EU/IKEA cabinet /door/ plinth sizes which are different to "normal" UK.
No cab required for a dishwasher.
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• #2497
Also - when I was doing my kitchen I found virtually no double ovens that would fit undercounter
Your minimum space install height dim is 720. A standard cab would be 720 overall - 2 x 18mm = 684mm. Which I guess is why they have come up with the thin bearer rail brackets -
• #2498
Found my cladding. Not penny either. 2k for 20sqm. Thats not expensive right?
1 Attachment
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• #2499
Nice. Prob needs planning permission though right (as does anything that isn’t matching existing roof tiles)?
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• #2500
Dunno? No extensions ever match the roof tiles?
Re the electrics;
I was thinking you get an electrician do the connection from the main ring to the loft and install one double socket, from which you run a big standing lamp (so the grandparents can see) and an extension cable with all your office shit.
Then when you can you do all the bits you need for a real space as and when - sockets, lighting, etc. Once it's all done get an electrician back to sign it off.