• Should be straight forward, most of them just held on with an o-ring/friction against the axle.

    If you have rapidly failing main bearing or freehub bearing (and its hard to drift out/press back in a new bearing) then you are one of the many with badly toleranced hub. Have two of them in front of me right now.
    It goes...
    Bike shop notices a bad bearing, replaces it at cx cost, or cx sends wheel back to 'hunt'. Comes back with a weird undersize bearing to fix problem, which disintegrates within 3 months. Cycle repeats.
    Most of them are fine, but noticed a trend that loads of the bores are too tight and it binds on the cart bearing causing premature failure. Hunt deny there is a problem.
    Repeat.

  • Novatec I believe

  • Bitex I think, not totally sure. Which are decent hubs. Suspect Hunt opt for a lower grade of quality control to get the price down, or are openly buying seconds. Or when touring all the factories got one of the copy cats to mimic one of the well knowns. All heresay. Used to work in China + Taiwan briefly, got a good flavour for how things are done, and generally its not the Chinese or Taiwanese manufactures who are taking the piss, its the western brands messing about.
    Experience in the workshops, you tend to notice trends on certain parts and mftr's*

    *I.E Shimano 105 + Ult flat mount calipers with the brake pad pin seizing in place. My record is a 3 month old bike, one pin totally rotten, needed a new caliper, shimano had none, and still deny its even an issue (not heard of that before mate!) so the guy ended up returning entire bike to retailer (not me thankfully) for refund, and then bought same bike from another retailer. But then took the fecking stupid rotting pins immediately out and replaced with old MTB hex bolt pins. Issue solved. Just this minute literally saved 2 more calipers from pin seizure, 1 year old bike, done a thousand miles if its lucky, both right right on the edge of been stuck in there.

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