Home DIY

Might be being a bit thick, but can't find the sizings for door openings/apertures. Sure as hell ain't paying to read the BSI.

Speaking of which, I've got a rather wonky door casing leading to my bathroom (bathrooms getting redone fairly soon)

Its the top edge that's particularly bad, and its very obvious once you see the line of the tiles coming off it.

Is it a case of removing architraves, knocking out the old lining/casing, cutting above the door so its square and then fitting a new casing? The slight raising or squaring up of old door frames is something my google-fu has failed me on.

I’m getting a draft through my extractor fan.
The extractor pipe runs through the wall, the garage (which is very cold) to the external wall.

I have a one way valve in it, but I’m thinking it’s not working so well.

I want to insulate the garage door, which should help the temperature in the garage, but any tips on insulating a rectangular pipe?

Are you looking for door sizes or for the actual openings in walls etc?

Is it for an internal door or an exterior door?

Is the door going to be fire rated? If so to what standard?

Finally if I'm honest I couldn't tell you if the is a BSI document about door sizes. I'm sure there is a minimum size of door openings for a number of different circumstances but I am never involved in specifying this so couldn't tell off the top of my head.

Doors do tend to come in standard sizes, these are normally metricised measurements taken from imperial, so it normally makes more sense to work on doors in imperial.

I have made doors and adapted them as well as door liners or frames to fit so many different apertures over the years in both new build and old stock housing that I can say that it's very easy to justify moving away from any standard sizes that exists as long as other building regs are met (fire doors etc).

In this situation I would always strongly advise fitting a new door with the new liner.

Is the garage already insulated? I don't really see the point of doing the door if not.

Also even if you insulate the door you will need to do something to prevent draughts around the edges - garage doors tend to be a fairly loose fit because they don't need to be tight and as they are quite large will expand and contract lots with environmental changes.

As far as insulating a square extractor duct - rock wool and zipties will work if it is going to stay dry.

Personally I'd be looking at the non return valve to see if it can be improved. Extractor fans these days come with a sheet of acetate or similar on them to function as a non return valve. Maybe look at fitting one on the wall outlet.

Need a "Book of Bobbo" sticky at start of this thread imo.
-Opening in wall, not fire rating. Just to a bathroom.

I know I'm being dense, and either need to measure from middle of opening, mark door size, and add 3mm then add liner thickness, or just buy door liner, offer up then situate jackstuds.

just buy door liner, offer up then situate jacks..

Do this. When I'm not stuck at home waiting for 2 days worth of negative lateral flow tests I always prefer to actually offer up things like door liners as it means that I'm not going to fuck up by mis-remembering a measurement.

How do I go about fixing the fact that the end of my wall is falling off. I could push the whole thing off with not too much effort.

Can I just stick it back on with fresh mortar or will it be squashed by the weight? The whole thing seems a bit crumbly/sandy.

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Thanks. At what point can I call myself a chippie? Once I've hung the door and it's square presumably.

Did they run out of bricks?

Will definitely - it looks like our door was used in The Shining at the moment.

The garage is attached to our house on two sides, so garage door and one external wall. We have an extension above it, so insulating the garage will help with the temp of the floor above also.

The garage door itself has vents, and fairly large gaps around, so there is a fair bit of work to do to make the door warmer. I have bought a roll of door insulation kit. Also thinking of a garage door rubber floor ‘bar’ to reduce leaves/dust/draft getting in at the bottom.

The ducting runs tight against the ceiling, so some rock wool sounds like a good idea, but need to do something around it so it doesn’t look horrendous.

We have bricklayers re-building our yard walls at the mo - similar issues with cracks through it (albeit at a bigger scale).

They took the bricks down individually to the point where the crack is, then re-built with fresh mortar one-by-one.

No, just decided to build a little turret on either side of the gate.

Sorry, was referring to the massive mortar joint!

Why the fuck would the toilet start leaking from pan connector?

No damage to the rubber seal, and cleaned the area now still leaking.

Any ideas?

Don't know for sure but sometimes it seems the seal gets deformed and just won't seal again. I prefer to just replace them if I have to disconnect the toilet, it saves lost time in labour refitting and re-checking.

Meh zero labour fee as it is me.

Am tempted to turn the seal 180 degrees as I hate dealing with shit.

When I remove the toilet, the seal goes back in the usual undeformed state.

It's not always effective but a bit of lsx sometimes is enough to seal a small drip.

Easy to underestimate the pressure that builds up on that joint for a second or two when the toilet is flushed. It's not always enough to rotate them. Are you sure the angle hasn't changed.

Anu suggestions for how I can repair this door for my parents enough for the door knob to be fixed to it?

The screws have been screwed back in many times and now just fall out. Rotating the handle 45° finds the old work out holes. The handles don't attach to the spindle at all so all force from opening or closing the door is on the knob. Can I fill the wood with something that I can then screw into?

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embrah new town vibe.

Not enough burgundy & shuttering.

These are a pain. There's a type of 2 headed screw that you can put through the door but it looks like the lock body is too big to allow that. You can fill the original holes with matchsticks (glued in for extra stability). Sometimes that's enough. You really need to work out the spindle issues though and get the lock working properly. Spindles can be slightly different sizes.

If there's a similar handle on the other side, search for- through bolt m4 handle. Then bolt the two handles to each other.

Edit.
As ^ Airhead spotted, your lock case may not have suitable holes. Lots of newer lock bodies have holes through the case, either side of the spindle for through bolts.

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lock body is too big

Yup, that isn't an option unless I also change the lock but then there is a lot of filling elsewhere etc.

Matchsticks and new handles that screw to the spindle seems the way forward although that means choosing handles which I hate.