-
Twat a load of grease on it, but not loads on the pawls and that.
-
Check the seal is correctly installed and grease it. The problem is waterproof grease will make the pawls, or ratchet, sticky.
Even if you cannot replace the bearings you can pop the seal out with a knife and pack a bit more grease. -
Should be straight forward, most of them just held on with an o-ring/friction against the axle.
If you have rapidly failing main bearing or freehub bearing (and its hard to drift out/press back in a new bearing) then you are one of the many with badly toleranced hub. Have two of them in front of me right now.
It goes...
Bike shop notices a bad bearing, replaces it at cx cost, or cx sends wheel back to 'hunt'. Comes back with a weird undersize bearing to fix problem, which disintegrates within 3 months. Cycle repeats.
Most of them are fine, but noticed a trend that loads of the bores are too tight and it binds on the cart bearing causing premature failure. Hunt deny there is a problem.
Repeat.
You are reading a single comment by @pifko and its replies.
Click here to read the full conversation.
snottyotter
Netakure
BrickMan
@pifko
I'm about to replace the freehub on a 3 year old Hunt rear wheel, mainly because it looks mighty hard to remove the freehub bearings without specific tools, I can swap the freehub myself without a bike shop involved, and there are a few bite marks on the freehub splines anyway.
Questions is, is there anything I can do to help reduce water ingress in future?