Home DIY

https://www.nationaltoolhireshops.co.uk/category/decorating-access/ this sort of thing

Guess about 2.5m

Decorating platform might do it. Thanks, that's given me some leads.

MiTower or similar take 10 mins to set up and easy to shift around.

I wouldn't use ct1 flash band and flash band primer would give you longer lasting results. The only thing that would beat it would be proper lead flashing.

While you're up there worth checking that there actually is a fall on the flat roof (should be around 1:10) and that it falls away from the house, I know it's obvious but the number of DIYers that get this wrong is significant. If this isn't the case then the work will be more than you initially thought.

Also with the access towers (decorators platform). Be careful where you hire it from as some hire firms will insist that they see evidence of a PASMA qualification when they drop it off and if you can't do this will take the tower away and keep the cash.

Expanding foam.

Through your neighbour's letter box, until you can't smell, or hear, anything any more.

Thank you so much for this, that looks perfect.

The porch roof is an absolutely shit show. It has some fall, but no guttering. Not helped at all by next door at some point 'repairing' their side but our side not doing theirs at the same time or presumably thinking about the long term viability of it.

Going to suggest to next door at some point that we should re-instate a pitched roof to it with tiles, similar to how it would have been originally. Will fit proper guttering at the same time.

Not sure if downstairs or next door. Do both to be sure?

Be careful where you hire it from as some hire firms will insist that they see evidence of a PASMA qualification when they drop it off and if you can't do this will take the tower away and keep the cash.

It's not a CPA hire condition and although there's nothing to stop the hirer imposing additional conditions, it's an odd position to take as they have no duty of care in this regard.

What's definitely not on, is to impose undeclared conditions and then keep your money when you fail to meet them.

What is the forum recommended floor varnish? Osmo right? Which one?

Now exploring raw wood floor tiles, so want to see if I can get a sample of varnish.

Hard wearing is a priority. In particular it will be where are patio doors are and where dirt gets walked in and out from the garden.

Cheers.

this stuff imo - gives a lovely light ultra matte look

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Do both to be sure?

From the ground floor up.

Cheers

I used Manns Extra Tough Pro Floor Varnish (2 part version) on a wooden step inside patio doors and it's held up well so far. Easy to apply too.

👍

Biggest concern is choosing a flooring, then it changing once varnished.

Osmo 3032 clear satin, hardwax/oil combo I think is what it is? Over a tung oil mix on oak block worktop. Had it about 5 years and the stuff we used to use (Unika something) can't be easily got anymore, and TBH it was a bit shiney, close to varnish in finish and quite yellow.
Stripped that off, gone through the grits and wire wool, had a few weeks of tung oil applications (takes days to dry even vaguely well), and colour and feel is amazing, feels like a grain filler has been used.
But this tung mix isn't very protective against water, if you leave any on it, it soaks in within minutes.
Coating of Osmo 3032 polyX over the top the solution? Figured I might have to leave it a few weeks or more until the tung mix is set enough so that it doesn't mix or go weird. Anyone any experience?

Err I hate to be the bearer of bad news but I think you may be doing it wrong.

Pure tung oil should be applied using a 1:1 dilution with a solvent, I usually use naptha (lighter fluid). It needs to be left to off gas between coats, as this happens the oil in the oil solvent mixture hardens. It does take a while for it to off gas between coats but it is imperative that this allowed to happen as if you build up too thicker layer of the oil you run the risk of it gas checking (the finish will appear wrinkled). If the tung oil has been properly applied it should look wet (if you apply too much it looks plasticy) and this finish will be hard and almost impermeable.

For the reasons I have outlined above I would never recommend tung oil for use as a finish on a worktop despite the fact it's foodsafe once cured.

I fear that the way that you have applied the tung oil will mean that you will get a blotchy, inconsistent finish with the Osmo. It's worth a shot but you may have to start again...... Sorry.

Ah don't worry, haven't gone mad with it! Its not a pure tung, its a mix from a local wood workshop out of their big tub, 1st layer was watered down with turps, maybe not 1:1, but crazy thin feeling. Its more in the wood than it is on top of it. Its usually been 2 days between layers, sometimes more as I don't have time to go back to it after work. Realise it probably takes a solid month until it goes really really hard though.

Might try on a waste bit of wood to see what happens with it. In no rush to mess it up. That old Unika stuff did 3 to 4 years of basically no maintenance required, 1st year was lots of adding layers, years 2-4.5 have been super easy, only the very edge of the sink cutout (router cut 90 degree unslung sink) has needed topped up on its edge. So trying something new because that old stuff isn't available any more.

Had some really fancy varnish left over from a local boat builder/carpenter guy, but in the past had a varnished top and they are absolutely great until you get damage, then you have to strip the whole thing and gets a bit annoying fast.

Naptha, that stuff reeks.
back in the heady days of the ‘fixed gear scene’ i was flatmates with london’s famous track coach aka RPM who used it for cleaning tub rims, convinced i was being poisoned and suffering nausea and a headache it was banned from the house.

i potentially might have 60-70 sqM 1950’s iroku hardwood floor to strip and polish soon (if offer accepted) what is the Bona floor stuff like?

like the sound of it as it reminds me of the famous Julian and Sandy parquet flooring sketch
wasn’t there a forum approved man with a floor sander?

Just got a text from my bank - mortgage approved. Which means that, barring something truly exciting happening, I'll own two garages shortly.

From the sounds of things the wood for the doors is going to cost the same as the garages, and bearing in mind the recent theft from my rental garage I've decided to fit a sectional, motorised door to one of the garages due to the (possibly quite fictional) security benefits of said door.

But don't worry, I'll still make the other one.

More baby steps on the bench.

Girls night out allowed me to go full bastard neighbour last night until 10pm and finally get the centre support in. Feel guilty, but not that guilty.

Still to do:

1. Fix upper support bracket to wall
   
2. Add coach bolt to secure front horizontal cross piece to centre support
   
3. Trim coach bolts and recess holes for nuts on the upper bolts.
   
4. Fit noggins
   
5. Fit worktop
   
   

Lots more other bits planned, including some extra extension plugs and most importantly shelving but those are the essential parts left.

In a bit of a catch 22 in terms of storage as due to the build I've lost the old shelves on the right. New shelving will be a game changer, but until I can get stuff neatly stored underneath I can't do the shelves. But having to move half the crap out each time I want to do anything adds at least 30mins to each sesh. It's also a reminder that the whole thing could be completed in a free weekend... assuming I had access to one.

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Question;

Because of the unevenness of the walls, sockets etc. I'm wondering how to maneuver the worktop in place. I'm probably going to go thin ply (to screw and fix it all together) with a 18mm (ish) mdf on top.

Would it be worth cutting the ply into 2 to help get it in place? And if so where would you cut? An ⅛ off one end? Down the middle? A ⅓?

Or is there another trick?
Cheers

If you cut it to get it in place, make sure the cut sits directly over a noggin/joist (those words seem overkill for a bench top but you know what I mean) so that the join is supported and doesn't sag when everything's in place

Yeah. I guess it doesn't matter too much as long as it's supported.

Mainly thinking a sort of domino at one end would be the easiest and most discreet way to do it.

You would miss out on grants at that point but worth looking into, another option would be to have a sparky route the cable for you and have the install carried out by the vendor but to should be able to get what you want

I'm grantless anyway sadly, as we had a charger put in at our last house then moved - so it's purely a case of what instal route is cheapest and doesn't mess the house up!

Obviously these routes mean I'd need to find a good sparky in SE London, which is another hurdle