Home DIY

we could then close up gaps when re-laying the boards,

Only do this if you are replacing original boards with a modern flooring system. Timber boards will expand and contract seasonally this is why they were originally installed with a gap. The movement is why traditional floorboard are laid with gaps between them, gold standard is a 2mm gap but this won't stay like that for long. People often fill between boards when sanding and finishing traditional boards but this won't last too long.

Is it worth removing the original/old nails and later putting back with new ones?

Yes. It's essential, but you could reuse the original cut nails if they aren't too rusty.

so not have to worry about original nails going into original holes in the joists.

You shouldn't do this for 2 reasons:

1. You'll drive yourself mad trying to reassemble a very boring, hard jigsaw puzzle
   
2. The nails won't hold that well - for nails to work they need to go into fresh holes that they create.
   
   

If worth getting new nails - any particular ones? Or use a nail gun of some kind?

Ringshank nails will hold the best 50mm should hold well - personally I'd go stainless if you can find them if not hot dipped galvanised

Would be quicker if you're using a nailer (first fix) but the tip will mark the wood, if you do use one remember to ventilate the space you're working in also, hearing protection and wrap around safety squints are a must. I'd strongly advise you spend the time accurately setting the depth of the nail heads before mailing boards down.

In that situation the firm they're working for will turn off 240v and will have their own specialist 110v supply with FUCKING HUGE waterproof 3 pin plugs. Leaving you with 2 choices; batteries or 110v a big reason why people who work on both CSCS and domestic sites will go for batteries - they don't have to buy 2 sets of tools. Also if you have batteries only, then you only need to get your chargers PAT tested every 6 months not every fucking tool you own or if you're that way inclined it saves you a packet on moody PAT test labels from Amazon

The thinking being that the 110v supply is less dangerous however labourers will still do what labourers do and find a way to hurt themselves.

the expert advice I was hoping for - cheers!

No worries.

Almost forgot if you are putting down modern t&g chipboard boards whatever you do don't forget the glue. If you do forget to do this your floor will drive you absolutely mental in about six months by creaking loudly with almost no pressure put on it

So glad I didn't try and DIY the rads, house has killed half dozen bits already.

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I bought a cheap Chinese thing off Amazon which so far seems far far better than the Black & Decker or Bosch ones I’d had before.

There's about three models sold by a few hundred sellers. Link to the model that worked for you? Might be worth a go.

I'm not a sparky, but having a similar set up and when we are having the kitchen done we were told by a mate sparky that we could have an RBBO switch fitted to feed the fuse board or just have another spurred consumer unit.

Also some days, I can not solder for shit. Quite a few of the drain pipes in the house in france are copper to solder them requires oxy propane and the last plumbing clown we got in used oxy acetylene to solder copper pipes and managed to melt solder further down the pipe.

EDIT: Depending on what you are doing get a decent branded torch, self igniting is nice but not the end of the world. I'd say get a tip that can do both propane and mapp. As that may come in handy and better than buying two. Was going to recommend the rothenberger super fire 2, but looking at the prices seems that they aren't as value for money as they once were. Can get an oxy propane set up for less that just the propane. Also have the rothenberger rofire that fits on disposable butane butane/propane mix that is more sensible at less than £20.

Actually, I don't know. Looking at prices what would people recommend?

my dad made a decent living making his brand new furniture look like that for his london clientele in the 90's/00's. he'd build what they wanted, paint it 3 or 4 times then sand it all back to look like wear and tear and they'd go crazy for it.

FUCKING hate notched joints, have seen so many horror stories..Also if you buy a roll a straight run. Also the screwed joints don't have to be that tight as the correctly seated split ring will hold the pipe not the actual outer bolt.

Nowt going on top other than some osmo (probably) and rugs here and there :)

@HatBeard has to be the furniture embodiment of live, laugh, love.

I use super fire 2 but im using mine all the time. it doesn't flare like old bottles which is handy for not accidentally setting stuff on fire if it does.

Nowt going on top other than some osmo (probably) and rugs here and there :)

In that case maybe have a look at draughtex to finish off the job. It fits between the floorboards and allows expansion etc and makes a big improvement, even over insulation.

@HatBeard has to be the furniture embodiment of live, laugh, love.

There is a new startup selling laser engravers aimed at the poor fools who see themselves living the good life selling L³ shit on Etsy. Actually they've just updated their marketing material and are now trying to claim that idiots will spend £6k so they can make personalised gifts for friends.

It was a Tacklife DMS03 https://tacklifetools.com/products/stud-finder-wall-scanner
Looks very similar to https://www.amazon.co.uk/Detector-Electronic-Detection-Automatic-Calibration/dp/B09H1ZXNTV/ref=sr_1_1?crid=20AVW2NTWMWTP&keywords=tacklife+dms03&qid=1641988472&sprefix=tacklife+dms03%2Caps%2C100&sr=8-1

And now the electrician has said he's not prepared to do it full stop.

we cannot carry out any electrical work at the property at this point as the consumer unit in the property is too old and needs to be replaced prior to any works being able to be done. Unfortunately, at this point we do not do the full consumer unit replacements.

k den.

Think I'm going to pull the plug on the worktop templating and see when they can come in the future which means potentially many months of kitchen purgatory.

Thanks! Appreciate you looking it up - will give one of those a shot!

Nice. Sounds like they are busy and don't really want to do your job because they have something paying more or easier or something.

I could be wrong but that sounds like they are not registered and can't sign off a CU change (maybe the registered electrician in the firm left) combined with a lack of understanding about whether they would need to change the CU for regulatory or practical purposes.

Have they still not told you exactly why the CU needs changing?

Dredge for this topic as I'm doing the same right now - what did you end up doing?

So the electrician chap who came along from EO.com (smarter utility) managed to get it under the floorboards up until he could get it in behind the kitchen cabinets. his biggest issue was drilling through the stone wall, had to stop to charge his drill a few times but he did a cracking job at routing the cable. I'd say speak to your electrician and see what solutions they can come up with because they are pretty good and hiding cables it seems!

Interesting, cheers - i don’t have a friendly sparky so would be relying on the installer sent by the company doing a good job.

I have wondered if buying the unit and engaging an electrician separately might be a better approach for getting it installed how i want (rather than just how the company offers).

Nice tip, another sale for them today...

edit - wrong thread, meant to post on the Owning Your Home thread