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Chain round chainring and biggest cog + two links has always worked a treat for me. Just if its half way, go a little longer. The longer the chain the more likely that it will make bids for freedom if you aren't using a clutch mech or n-w chainring.
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So the freehub you've got is the very rare mid-90s one when Shimano was making the switch between Uniglide and Hyperglide
Many thanks for the info, btw! I’m learning plenty mucking about with this.
cheekysnaker
Tonts
@Jonny69
Also well signed up on this and finally able to reply. So the freehub you've got is the very rare mid-90s one when Shimano was making the switch between Uniglide and Hyperglide. It can use Uniglide or Hyperglide cassettes. You can tell because it has those external threads for a Uniglide threaded locking cog and the internal threads for your Hyperlide lockring. If the freewheel ratchet dies or it gets too wobbly, you can switch it for pretty much any later Shimano 7-speed freehub body.
Probably need to add 3 or so links depending how long the old chain was. Try it out, then if the chain is a bit too slack you can take some links out. There are rules like pull the chain tight on the largest cogs and add two links, but I always find the chain is a little too tight like that and prefer a bit more slack.