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Also some days, I can not solder for shit. Quite a few of the drain pipes in the house in france are copper to solder them requires oxy propane and the last plumbing clown we got in used oxy acetylene to solder copper pipes and managed to melt solder further down the pipe.
EDIT: Depending on what you are doing get a decent branded torch, self igniting is nice but not the end of the world. I'd say get a tip that can do both propane and mapp. As that may come in handy and better than buying two. Was going to recommend the rothenberger super fire 2, but looking at the prices seems that they aren't as value for money as they once were. Can get an oxy propane set up for less that just the propane. Also have the rothenberger rofire that fits on disposable butane butane/propane mix that is more sensible at less than £20.
Actually, I don't know. Looking at prices what would people recommend?
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lynx
konastab01
This is what I was getting at. Watched a few youtube videos and it looks pretty straightforward. I understand the concepts. But the vids are made by professional plumbers doing this day in day out, hence my question. I think I'll probably have enough to do to warrant buying some solder, flux and a few fittings to have a practice. I already have some pipe and tools like pipe cutter, deburrer etc.
Seems like it should be easier than yesterday's endeavours - put all the pieces together in the right order, tighten everything up so I only have two nuts on the T I'm inserting to tighten in-situ, turn off water, drain system, cut pipe, insert T and tighten, turn water back on, leak. Water off, tighten, water on, leak, repeat - for about two hours. All in the under sink cupboard.
Instead the leaky joint would have been soldered in advance, and just the two T connections would need an awkward in-situ solder which would still be easier than trying to fit spanners into a space in which spanners do not want to fit.
I've basically talked myself into it. I'll let you all know when it goes horribly wrong :)