Home DIY

Cheers - was looking at that one. There are also quite a lot on Amazon that claim to tell you the material, centre point, etc.. But I don't really trust Amazon...

It's not too difficult.

https://youtu.be/9vq6gu2uM6U

This is a good guide

I would always recommend using a heatproof matt to go between pipe and walls / back of cupboards. It saves potentially very costly fire related boo-boos.

Out of curiosity, when you say compression fitting, are you talking threaded compression olive ones? If so, you could consider push fit pipe fittings, which are the easiest and great for tight spaces.

Thanks, yes I was talking about threaded olive fittings. I had a nightmare with push fit fittings and not 100% straight pipe (plastic pipe bought in a roll) in the past so don't really like using them, plus they are ugly as. Got a few more plumbing jobs to do and expect more to be added to the list as we find out more about the house so would like to do things "properly".

Fair enough. Also, worth noting that you can get pipe fittings that come “loaded” with solder that can make the job easier

I resoldered my exterior drainpipe and it wasn't that hard with a blowtorch and some cheap flux and solder. I imagine getting heat into smaller gauge tubing would be easier. As with almost all these things, the hard work is in the prep, measuring, cutting, sanding, deburring, cleaning...

I taught myself how to do it, ended up quite enjoying it. Did replace every last inch of pipe in my flat, so had a fair amount of practice.

It's much better than using compression fittings, once you've got the hang of it.

Am I mental for wanting to use a manifold and copper piping for doing an en suite? Or should I just go copper to manifold then PEX?

I've got this one and hate it. It's so fucking sensitive.

That said it does detect shit.

@? If you do get it, top tip is to put your hand on the wall.

It's much better than using compression fittings, once you've got the hang of it.

In what sense?

Not having much luck.

What is the reason he gave?

What you are talking about is soft soldering, it is easy when you get the knack. Make sure both surfaces are clean and shine, then heat the joint.

Personally I currently like pex piping cheaper than copper and easier to install.

I would still touch a yorkshire with solder if I was using them tbh.

Soldering isnt hard but then again I do it all the time, just watch with what gas bottle you use and what your doing as you dont wanna set your house on fire.

If your doing water too make sure you get lead-free.

Cut everything to length, bend where appropriate, fit it all together, admire your careful work, then hit each joint with the torch and feed in the solder rather than clattering away with two spanners in a tight space, and ending up with at least one leaking olive.

Also, much happier to leave soldered pipework somewhere hard to get to/check on.

He didn't really say anything but just got awkward and said 'we as a company wouldn't be able to proceed with the work without an upgrade' pointing at this:

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I have something similar, although even older as it still has fuse wire. Presumably something similar happened when the previous owners put in the kitchen as that is on a different consumer unit which has fancy stuff like an RCD.

when you get the knack

This is what I was getting at. Watched a few youtube videos and it looks pretty straightforward. I understand the concepts. But the vids are made by professional plumbers doing this day in day out, hence my question. I think I'll probably have enough to do to warrant buying some solder, flux and a few fittings to have a practice. I already have some pipe and tools like pipe cutter, deburrer etc.

Seems like it should be easier than yesterday's endeavours - put all the pieces together in the right order, tighten everything up so I only have two nuts on the T I'm inserting to tighten in-situ, turn off water, drain system, cut pipe, insert T and tighten, turn water back on, leak. Water off, tighten, water on, leak, repeat - for about two hours. All in the under sink cupboard.

Instead the leaky joint would have been soldered in advance, and just the two T connections would need an awkward in-situ solder which would still be easier than trying to fit spanners into a space in which spanners do not want to fit.

I've basically talked myself into it. I'll let you all know when it goes horribly wrong :)

This coming weekend my dad and I are going to lift all the boards on the ground floor of the new-old house (in advance of a re-plumb and then under-floor insulation).

Is it worth removing the original/old nails and later putting back with new ones?
Main thought for doing so is that we could then close up gaps when re-laying the boards, so not have to worry about original nails going into original holes in the joists.

If worth getting new nails - any particular ones? Or use a nail gun of some kind?

If your kitchen has a back door leading to a garden then it would need an RCD protecting any sockets that are likely to be used for the garden.

It does seem a bit jobsworth but RCD's can save lives and asking them if it's avoidable probably got their back up. Not really your fault if you're trying to save money but they might have felt they were wasting their time at that point.

Thanks - it doesn't have a back door leading to the garden, though there is a side door not far (but not in the kitchen).

I'm more than happy to have one but just wished he'd told me when he first visited and when I was budgeting.

I didn't ask if it was avoidable, I just said, 'ok, can you quote for that too please'. Pulled the trigger on appliances now and can't find another spark in time so feel it's less jobsworth and more 'this guys fucked and I'm going to rinse him'.

If your kitchen has a back door leading to a garden then it would need an RCD protecting any sockets that are likely to be used for the garden.

Having been brought up in a home with fuse wire I always use an extension lead with an RCD on the plug. Which also means it gets tested every use. Hands up everyone that tested their consumer unit RCD in the last 3 months...

Personally I currently like pex piping cheaper than copper and easier to install.

From my perspective PEX is a million times better as there is more margin for error drilling the centre of a joist rather than notching the top/bottom. Also means it's less likely that some clown will put a nail / screw through it. Therefore I won't have to waist my time putting someone else's fuck right.

You would have a better idea of the vibe of course. I hope you get it sorted.

I've just redone the pipework for our heating. Swapped out a bunch of copper for PEX. Had one fitting fail spectacularly on Christmas eve. Thankfully in the cellar. Still far better than fucking round with a blowtorch and a very quick fix.

It's also pretty common for trades to assume they are covered by an rcd without even checking. Especially dangerous if you're outside on scaffolding or cutting stuff in the back garden. It's one reason I've heard given for the popularity of battery powered tools, less hassle on site and no 110/240v decisions.

It's also pretty common for trades to assume they are covered by an rcd without even checking.

I bet if they worked for a big company with a H&S department and pages of risk assessments they would bring their own RCD to site.