Home DIY

I used solvent allcoat in white last year. Found it really horrid to work with - super smelly and really difficult to get a smooth finish. Couldn't apply and then lay off as would drag and be worse than the initial stroke. I tried warming it up too - but no improved result. So defo avoid if you can. I used it because it had a lower application / higher humidity rating for application than the water based and i was working through winter.

Bit of rough and ready router planing today. Worked better than expected given it was all offcuts and scraps. Vac didn't seem to do much though. So much dust. Maybe a different bit would have helped. Hopefully won't have too much more of this to do though.

1 Attachment

is there a type of resin you can put a rawlplug in with screw as it sets then remove for fixing?

The resin will get in the plug and on the screw.

If you went that route, use something like a nail to push the plug in.

Either vacuum the hole (gaffer tape a thin tube over the end of the hose) or use something like a MTB pump (with thin tube) to blast the dust out. The resin might include a suitable tube as an extension to the nozzle.

It hardens more slowly in the cold, which is handy if you need to get more than one hole out of a nozzle.

But I'd take airhead's advice.

Just went to change a one way dimmer to a one way switch and the black wire was in common and red was in L2

I thought red went in common and black in L1 ??

Probably leave it to an expert now as that has confused me

I tried a vac on the same router base recently. Did fuck all. All the chips just pissed out the opening in the bottom of the base.

I used to live in a flat that had that stuff going on in the walls. I swear it’s like soil.

lead supply pipe - something to think about in the future, maybe before we try looking at getting the garden looking good.

Your supply company may do a free replacement and re-connection of the lead pipe... but probably just up to your boundary. The comple run must be replaced at the same time, so you'll have some digging to do on your side.

Glad the immediate leak has been sorted.

I've got the same here. A skim of plaster then the shitty disintegrating stuff then a gap too small to use any type of plug then some brick. It's a nightmare to attach anything to unless you use a really long plug to get into the brick.

those fischer fixings will be good for that (once you fill the hole with something), the ones on a long zip tie that you either use straight or if theres a void you let them flip up like a plasterboard fixing.
they are good for dot and dab walls as the plug bit is supported in the wall but the rawlplug bit in the blockwork/brick.
we used them for lath and plaster walls to spread the load a bit.

It doesn't really matter, a switch can go either way round if it is just a one way switch.

re the various thoughts on the curtain rail, i need to have a look in person but i know theres a tube of gorilla grip-fill stuff i used for a ceiling rose, tempted to use that round a wooden plug and then drill when it’s gone off.

other option is to take down the curtain pole and fill the holes and then get the solicitor to amend the sale doc and say curtain pole not included. :-)

The black one should be sleeved to show that it's a line conductor on a switch line. They are rarely sleeved in the real world.

Changing the document is a good plan. You don't want to try and fix the physical problem in a hurry if you can avoid it.

Fitting a piece of wood in multiple points is a good suggestion too.

Am surprised the dimmer worked normally though?

Cables look a bit old too 😣

1 Attachment

Having bought and sold a few houses in my 62 years on this planet I'm not too sure it's a deal breaker for a house sale. Blu Tac will do :)

Am surprised the dimmer worked normally though?

Lots of old dimmers don't care.

Cables look a bit old too 😣

I think that is imperial spec stranded 2 core lighting cable. It's probably okay if it is in good physical condition. There may not be an earth / CPC which restricts the fittings that can be used.

I'd still swap the dimmer with a regular switch but changing things like light fittings might not be a good idea unless you can check the earth or the fitting is double insulated.

Perhaps time for an EICR so you know what you have.

Thanks, I'll swap the switch out and put it the right way round rather than copying the old wiring. Cable looks OK casing split near the ends, probably due to age making it a bit more fragile?

The light has stopped working so I'm hoping this sorts it, if it's the light fitting I'll get an electrician in.

I think we have an EICR as the property was rented before us, I'll have a look.

@Airhead or someone else who knows, isn't that what's called "dirty" wiring?

Enlisted a mate to help me remove our kitchen tiles.

Anyone got tool suggestions?

I only have one fine(?) masonry chisel. But do have my old screwdriver set. It's probably not going to see any use after this.

Cheers

Hammer drill with chisel bit will make light work if you don't need to use the tiles again/can sort out the wall behind...

Hmmmm... I mean I'd like to buy an SDS since having to return the one my mate lent me, but I'm trying to avoid damaging the wall - will that really be possible?

I've only done this a couple of times, but reckon if the wall/plaster is in decent nick the chisel bit won't do it much damage if you get the angle right when you remove, if its crumbling and blown already then yeah, it will fuck it, but so will any system of removal I think...

masonry bolster and a lump hammer?

If you wanna go manual I bought this recently but didn't use it after borrowing a mate's hammer drill. Welcome to borrow (SE23) or buy for £10 if any use...

https://www.diy.com/departments/magnusson-3-piece-bolster-cold-chisel-set/1801967_BQ.prd

I saw someone use a multitool with some kind of scraper bit on YouTube yesterday and it whizzed through them and then again to clean up the adhesive. So I bought a multitool yesterday. Hoping it bloody works!