The Dentist Association; Cervelo Owners Club

63.4 x 22.1

Thanks Xav, very helpful.
Although I wish they'd copied the geometry a little more exactly...

So, freshened this up for the summer with some clean tyres.

Also went a bit “bar down” but not “hoods up” as I’m being lazy with retaping - it’s all marginal gains at this point though

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That's pretty big ted

lovely bike, never sell it

‘Only’ a 58

Never say never but with fresh tape and tyres every once in a while I reckon this one has Big Ted Shed longevity

Let me put a comma between pretty en big then :)

😀

My R5, picked up on here.

Love it, though it doesnt take any prisoners in terms of elbow/shoulder stiffness after a long ride. :)

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Never realised this page existed until today!!

My brother has the S3 in red / black which I still think is one of the best modern carbon paint jobs… built as a super light weapon with full super record 11 and ultimates. 16 years later still an extremely light (UCI limit / just under) aero machine, although the ride is on the extreme side… he is the second owner.

After lusting over it for a while I decided I needed aero, picking up a 2010 S5 (the Far East model). Not the lightest machine and only able to fit 23’s in, it’s still a fast bike, although form follows function! It’s white, although painted in plasti dip currently in Matt black.. dura ace 11 with the rotor cranks. Rides well on the wide knight 65 rims, feeling like much bigger tyres. Bike of choice for 20mph+ longer group rides. 2nd owner.

Happy riding 😎

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All very nice.
The s5 needs a smaller/better saddle bag though

Thank you. Agree on the saddle bag, looks bad… although I usually carry two tubes plus tools and prefer on the bike rather than my pocket!!

Think the bag looks bigger as the saddle so far forward?

Emailed cervelo today asking when the r5cx will be released .

Out last night on this for the first time in ages.

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I like that.

I have a Cervelo Solo Team frameset that I think is maybe from the year before yours? Going for a sorta-hhsrb build. I bought the frame real cheap without doing any research.
I've discovered that there is a very small (no more than 2mm) crack at the seat post collar. Google suggests this was pretty common. Mixed reports online on whether it's likely to get worse.
Out of curiosity, does your frame have the brass shim at the top of the seat tube?

If someone is interested in a large P3SL frameset in good condition (including the sometimes hard to find custom-sized seatpost etc.), please let me know. As much as I would like to hang it on the wall next to my venerable Cervelo Soloist, I don't think it's going to happen sadly. And I could use both some space freed up, and a bit of cash.

Pm'd. Very interested in this.

Not that I remember. Mines not cracked ( frantically touches wood) and i was not aware that was a common problem. Bought it preowned from a mechanic who worked in a bike store selling Cervelo.
Mind you when I bought any of my previous cannondale everyone said it would "crack and fail"

oh and thanks for the compiment.
It's probably my favourite bike I have ever owned.

I think this crack was unique to my particular model year. It’s at the cut out on the seat tube that the seat collar pinches together when tightened.
Apparently the seat posts were prone to slipping and the crack would appear due to folk over tightening the bolt.
Cervelo sent out a brass shim to stop the seat post slipping which apparently solved it.
I don’t have wheels for the bike yet, so I’ve yet to find out if it’s going to slip.
My fault for not doing my homework before a very impulse buy!

It’s very small, so I’m hopeful that it won’t get worse.
If it does, I think I’ll look for a newer S1 like yours or maybe an S2

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It’s very small, so I’m hopeful that it won’t get worse

I'd be inclined to drill a stop hole

Thanks, that’s a great suggestion. Hadn’t considered anything like that.

What size diameter drill bit would be best? How far along from the crack?
Is the idea that if the crack does get worse, it propagates towards the hole then hopefully stops there?

Is the idea that if the crack does get worse, it propagates towards the hole then hopefully stops there?

No, you want the end of the existing crack to be within the diameter of the hole. Typically, people centre the drill on the end of the crack, but you don't need to worry about nailing it precisely. I'd probably drill it min. 3mm/⅛" up to 5mm/3/16"