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• #33377
ms_com wanted a mini wardrobe for mini_com that she saw on Pinterest. Used my first day off to myself (well, the first half of it) to build this. Kallax for scale.
2 Attachments
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• #33378
There are as always lots of variables! You can have loose fitted vinyl flooring on a roll. This is much easier than glued down. The glue down type I have used is the thicker type used in hospitals etc. This is heavy and stiffer so handling it is tricky, especially as the adhesive is very sticky and you can't paint the whole floor with adhesive before rolling it out. Would be easier with 2 people I guess. It's very durable though.
If you just have a loose fit the challenge is cutting the edges, not too difficult to do but depending on how neat a finish you need to satisfy any ocd it may not be easy enough. If you've just had a floor poured maybe you have no skirting yet. In which case, loose fitted with skirting on top is easy to cut.
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• #33379
You made that from scratch this morning? You need to slow down, you're making the rest of us look bad :)
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• #33380
Getting the 400mm wide board from Wickes saved A LOT of prep time.
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• #33381
cute bears
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• #33382
Her name means Divine Bear in Scandinavian, and I've been called a bear more than once.
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• #33383
I have a couple of door frames that need architrave applied. Unfortunately the frame itself is very close to the adjacent wall, so I can't use 'full sized' architrave vertically.
If you're still following, well done.
What's the best/neatest way of applying some sort of passable architrave? I have some moulding in the same profile as the architrave (which is obviously much thinner), but obviously this won't neatly align with the horizontal architrave (which does fit 'normally').
I could apply the moulding all the way around the door frame but this might look a bit odd compared to the rest of the house.
Otherwise I could... Cut down the full width architrave to fit, but I like the machinery to do this myself. Obviously if that's the best way, I can enlist professional help!
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• #33384
Can you rip the full sized architrave lengthwise until it does fit? Then if your rip cut isn't perfectly flat, a plane will help take out the high spots then just caulk the join to the adjacent wall.
Filler and paint makes me the joiner I ain't.
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• #33385
My idle googling suggests you are right, but is a tad above my DIY skill level.
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• #33386
Not impossible to rip the architrave with a hand saw. Take your time and get as close as you can, then as stevo said, caulk or fill the gap. Have you done any sawing before?
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• #33387
Only for minor DIY bits and pieces (and steerer tubes...), but I suppose architrave isn't super expensive, so what's the downside in trying?!
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• #33388
There's a small learning curve but you don't have to worry too much about the exposed edge because it should be hidden by the wall. If you can cut within a couple of mm from your guide line it should work fine, just a bit time consuming.
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• #33389
I suppose the wall might not be straight which could complicate things a bit.
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• #33390
Ha! Well, let's give it a shot - hadn't realised handsawn was a viable option.
Thanks for the input!
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• #33391
God I love doing old fashioned joinery...
Edit: not exactly DIY.
3 Attachments
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• #33392
Architrave will be nice and thin so not too bad for a long cut.
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• #33393
That looks fun
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• #33394
Precautionary ambulance?
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• #33395
It's going to make a lovely extension to that rabbit hutch though
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• #33396
The building doesn't look that bad
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• #33397
That's for if he tries to build garage doors with it...
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• #33398
Are the shelves routed and glued and the rest of it fixed with pocket holes?
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• #33399
Any recommendations for mini plunge saws? One with ~ 25-30mm cutting depth, this kind of thing https://www.toolstation.com/draper-20979-600w-89mm-mini-plunge-saw/p66271 (this is what I have but it's discontinued)
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• #33400
Sadly not. The jobs at a residential dementia care home and one of the residents had a funny turn this afternoon.
Thanks this is really helpful, I hadn't considered tiles.
I was thinking to get a 4x5m roll, and just gap fill with off cuts in the chimney breast as shelves will be going in there, so it wouldn't be seen. One issue I had forseen was that I may not be able to get a 4x5 roll through the house.
R.e. floor, I have had builders in to remove the existing screed and hardcore, and lay a new membrane, insulation and fresh screed so the levels are bang on - although it's still going off so haven't 100% confirmed this but we did discuss what was going on top.