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  • Either way, it's not a good idea the night before any major piano recitals.

  • I must admit that I absolutely hate the ones with guards. They just feel mega cumbersome and awkward to use to get into tight spots. Nothing like the risk of injury to focus the mind ;)

  • How easy is it to fit plinth drawers into an existing kitchen? Seems a shame to waste the space but Google is giving very little.

  • If you've got access to fit the drawer runners, it's really easy.
    I fitted drawer runners to each unit of my first kitchen as I assembled the flat packs.
    Not certain I would want to try it in situ.

  • I use a Hultafors chisel, fully sharpened to begin with. Depending on how much I have to do it might need sharpening during the job.

    https://www.axminstertools.com/hultafors-heavy-duty-chisel-set-106716?utm_source=tag&utm_medium=affiliates&utm_content=%7BTAG.AID%7D&tagrid=%7BTAG.RID%7D&glCountry=GB&utm_campaign=shopforward&gclid=CjwKCAiA-9uNBhBTEiwAN3IlNPfy-Tq-7lI8qbVdF6hBn2gU_H700y-VQWZgNliQODT-rUd1RS5NIRoCfMwQAvD_BwE

    I prefer it but I also have an sds chisel if the going gets too tough.

  • Those are fit.

    “ tough PP holster ”

    Lol.

  • Cheers. Kitchen is in and not going anywhere so access is pretty limited.

  • I personally prefer a bolster without one, quicker to use although I use mine all the time to split feathers. You only smash your hand ion your not paying attention, well thats how I find i do it.

  • My guess was that as @CYOA was looking at a set including a hammer from Amazon, that they are, like me, not in the trades. So inexperienced in their use. So while it's good to hear "proper" technique from folks who do use them all the time, my guess is the newb/cack-handed DIY-er* could benefit from a bit of protection.

    *me

  • This.

    Or at least have someone else holding the bolster / cold chisel..

    I had a pair of labourers digging a trench, one happily swinging a sledge as the other held a big breaker bar.

  • Also - stitch drill all the things, then tidy the edges with cement.

  • Recommend me a white bathroom sealant please.

    Application would be sealing the external gap between shower tray and the floor, and sealing the gap between the tray inspection cover and the tray itself, again on the exterior.

    UniBond Triple protect seems to be quite highly recommended, but I wonder if that's overkill for this application.

  • BT1, which is CT1 for bathrooms.

  • Ive just used BT1 on my bathroom, its more expensive but if its anything like ct1 it'll do what it claims.

  • BT1,

    Yeah, this was discussed up thread. Might be a bit of overkill for the particular job, but no harm in trying it I guess.

  • One of the better things about expensive silicon is that it is much easier to work

  • removing all the horrible old woodchip wallpaper in my house

    likely to need some of the walls skimmed after the plaster underneath ahas come away with the scraping.

    My question is, how clean/smooth does the wall need to be for a skim to work? Is cleaning every last bit of residue and glue off necessary?

  • No I don't think so. We've just had similar done and I don't think they worried about it

  • that's a relief. My strategy is to remove the outer layer of paper first and assess the walls, without worring too much about getting them perfect.

    What did you pay per room, approx?

  • It was a hall so difficult to estimate. There was a week of preparation, removal of blown plaster and some was back to the brick. It was 95sqm for £3500.

  • Has anyone installed a vinyl floor themselves?

    I need one putting in my cellar, it's not square so there's quite a lot of cutting involved. Was planning to do this job myself, but now wondering if I should just get a pro to do it?


    1 Attachment

    • PSX_20211215_115643.jpg
  • Roll or tile? Just put in tiles for a temporary floor. Easy and rather satisfying.

  • Tiles are easier than a roll, just easier to handle. You need to buy a decent quality adhesive. Preparation of the substrate is the most difficult bit. Usually you'll need a thin screed of self levelling poured over the top of whatever is there, then that needs to be carefully flattened and cleaned very carefully before you start. Any little bits can easily show through the vinyl. Self levelling cement doesn't actually self level all that well in my experience.

    Not sure if you will find a roll wide enough to do the whole floor in one and making a join can be quite specialised (basically welding in situ). Tiles would be much easier to lay.

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Home DIY

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