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• #8877
Did this recently (well more grease) on my DT 240s and was amazed at the silence after years of clicking.
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• #8878
Anyone bought wheels from these guys? https://puravelo.cc/
I'm able to get a slight discount.
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• #8879
put thicker grease on the pawls
Don't ever do this on any hub, you have a good chance of breaking a pawl or a ratchet ring because the pawl fails to engage fully in time to take up the drive due to the excess viscous drag.
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• #8880
Woah excess viscous drag fear is like the legendary kerb strike fear of fixylordism for the noisy-hub-afflicted GroadBro generation
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• #8881
Just putting it out there. "Thicker grease" might mean anything up to the kind of nearly solid lubricants used on the pivot pins of JCBs. If people want to break their excessively noisy boutique hubs, that's their affair. They could have just bought Shimano in the first place 🙂
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• #8882
Just putting it out there.
Oh yea, and now you have, the Genie is out of the bottle. #justsayin
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• #8883
Just fill the hub with expanding foam, your freehub will never click too loud again
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• #8884
I've heard repacking the pawls with Elves' tears makes a Chris King sound like a harp
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• #8885
Luckily, nobody on a dedicated fixed gear forum would go anywhere near a freehub
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• #8886
Are there any all black or coated rim brake tubeless compatible rims out there? Something like the DT Swiss Oxic but available to buy separately rather than as a complete wheelset
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• #8887
Anyone vouch for Hunt wheels / the Hunt 50 Wide Aero wheelset? Seems bargainous at <£800 and gets good reviews from the usual outlets. Fancying an upgrade from my stock Mavics when spring hits...
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• #8888
Choose a 'disc' rim that is the same extrusion as one that is also available with machined sidewall.
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• #8889
Open Pro UST?
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• #8890
Ambrosio P20
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• #8891
Thanks for the suggestion. Is the logic behind this that they are essentially the same rim but without the machined sidewall? Would that not have a negative effect on breaking performance?
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• #8892
Thanks for that, exactly what I'm after!
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• #8893
Would that not have a negative effect on breaking performance?
It probably has a positive effect of breaking performance, since none of the original extrusion is machined away. Braking performance is barely affected, but you do have to scrub flakes of alumina out of your pads and the rims quickly start to look like machined ones as the soft anodising wears off.
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• #8894
Ahh that makes sense, in my head I was thinking that it would be less grippy for some reason
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• #8895
Before committing to the NMSW life, have a look at some Mavic CD (couche dure = hard coat) rims from the 80s and 90s and then remember that hard anodising lasts about 10 times as long as the soft anodising you'll find on current rims.
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• #8896
You could always try a carbide coated braketrack rim, if you want a dark-coloured brake track that will stay dark. I believe they do exist in road flavours, not sure about tubeless.
The obvious other contender would be a carbon rim. But now we're back to braking performance.
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• #8897
just a heads up on these - they're super hard to get tyres to seat on and the black surface goes away almost immediately under braking. Otherwise they're great rims. I bought them at £12 each and they were a bargain. At £39 I'd go to Kinlin XR22T and deal with the aesthetics.
As @gbj_tester is alluding to - almost all black brake surfaces dissapear very quickly when braked on, except for the old open pro ceramics
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• #8898
I believe they do exist in road flavours
Exist in the sense that some of the ones which were made survive to this day. I can't think of an example of a current production loose rim, or an historic one which was tubeless compatible.
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• #8899
TL;DR:
Machined sidewalls exist for sound reasons, and it's best to resign yourself to the ugliness. -
• #8900
I believe the only available option is Boyd Altamont Ceramic...but @gbj_tester is right. Save your money. No modern ceramic brake tracks last forever.
And tubeless road is a waste of money
Just put thicker grease on the pawls if you don’t like the noise.