Home DIY

Cheers for the advice. I'll take care.

They're great for rounding over corners, flush cutting and routing out hinge mortices.

This ^ sounds like what I'm after.

As an eg
I made some mdf shelves to go convert a wardrobe to all shelves. To match the profile of the top shelf I spent ages with a couple of files and sandpaper.

The shiplap on my shed is a niche size so being able to cut down a larger size and make the right shape to replace broken boards would be really useful.

(Eventually) I'm going to make a lip/trim to go around the edge of my work bench where it meets the wall to hide the gap. It would be nice to have a simple rounded edge - a bit like on a skirting bord.

So it's that sort of thing. None of which I see as being huge pieces of work.

Can anyone recommend a reasonably priced (cheap) sliding mirror door wardrobe? We were looking at IKEA but the doors we wanted have disappeared

If I dont have them on, we work in silence. Lol

I recently sold my 1/2 router and bought a makita 18v 1/4in one instead.

I now actually use it - rather than do things badly with other tools because i can't be arsed the faff of getting it out and handling it (it weighed plenty).

Agree that you need something big for proper routing - but trimming doors/hinges/routing rabbets (americanism?) for boxes is super easy and unfaffy by comparison. would buy again.

With routers the bits usually dictate the need for collet sizes. If you want to use a template to rout a worktop join you need 1/2". I think that's why most carpenters end up with three routers minimum. The 1/2" is too heavy for a lot of edge work but works well in a table, especially if you're using heavy duty profile blades. 1/4" is perfect for hinges, slotting in edges or biscuit jointing, profiles on shelf edges etc. Palm size for laminate trimming, rounding corners.

Talking of routers - anybody want these, I’ve got the triton one for table mounting and smaller Festool for handheld stuff.
I’m near Manchester so would need collecting or posting. Would prefer local collection otherwise happy to post if you pay.

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Also sander

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I’ve dropped you a pm.

Side profile of my floor in kitchen. The black is existing concrete. The brown is existing floorboards.

My plan is to chisel down the concrete on the red dots to get a vertical edge (because in my mind vertical edge is easier to scribe to than beveled edge?). Then lay ply (yellow) down to create a more gradual slope than the current 2 inch drop. Then once it's fairly level to cover it in a few layers of underlay (blue) and then vinyl tiles (not shown).

Is that a trash plan. What else could I do and how could I go about doing it or how could I go about cleanly chiselling down a straight-ish line into concrete?

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It's not very elegant but I've seen it work on a large scale with hardboard. Not sure what the elegant solution would be.

For the idiots among us, what do you mean exactly? Not worried about elegant so long as once the vinyl tile is on top it doesn't look like shit. But realistically it will be an improvement on the current situation.

I've seen floors leveled like this (using hardboard instead of ply). By large scale I mean the slope has been over 8ft.

I'm not sure about the scale of the drawing but it might be more difficult to do if it's over a short distance because the pieces of board will be narrow.

Regarding elegant, I mean that it's a time consuming bodge. Elegant would be a clever way of adjusting the existing floor to meet the level of the concrete but I'm pretty sure that is not an option.

Angle grinder?

It'll be about 3-4m wide and a drop from concrete to floorboards of approx 2 inches at most. Though it's angled so starts at 2 inches one end, down to about an inch at the other.

Can I ask if there's any reason for hardboard over ply? Happy with whatever's most appropriate. I'd have assumed ply is more flexible/can tolerate changes in angle better?

Good call (i think?) Better than my current proposition of throwing a hammer at it from the living room.

I would probably chisel the concrete unless you can handle the dust from an angle grinder. It's possible you won't get a clean edge with a chisel though.

If you need to fill 1-2 inches across 3-4m how far into the floor will the slope stretch?

At 3-4mm there's very little difference between ply and hardboard. Hardboard is available in smaller sheets and it's easier to cut with a stanley knife. It's also a bit more inert.

Thanks re. hardboard -didn't know it came than thin. Sounds more like 'brittle board' but will take a look.

Re. chiseling - something like this? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-Tools-26120-Builders-Certified/dp/B00BWR5YO2/ref=asc_df_B00BWR5YO2/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=205341469171&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9801808503969127254&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9045311&hvtargid=pla-421904623593&psc=1&th=1&psc=1

This is an overhead which may explain more clearly?

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Get bolsters with rubber guards if you are doing it by hand. You WILL miss and smash your hand otherwise. I managed to do so, even with the guard, when taking out the chimney and fire place.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/magnusson-guarded-bolster-cold-chisel-set-3-pieces/5429V

An SDS with a chisel bit would be easier though if you can source one.

Out of interest, which one is level?

Neither. The floorboards are fairly level but not perfect. My intention is just to have a long, gradual slope instead of a steep drop. I don't think I'd be able to get it properly level with my skill/knowledge/budget and I've had zero interest in about 2 years of trying to book a flooring specialist to come and sort it.

Get bolsters with rubber guards

Problem with these is they encourage you to hold the bolster incorrectly. You should hold the bolster like a pencil so that if you miss your hand only receives a glancing blow which will still make you turn the air blue shouting but you won't break anything. By holding the bolster in your fist as most people instinctively do if you miss your hand still takes most of the force and as you pointed out the small bit of rubber between your hand and the hammer doesn't actually offer that much protection.

The correct answer of course is to get a labourer.

Fair enough. Wear goggles as well.

Until you find a void with the bolster and it sinks 3 or 4 inches deep than anticipated, taking a decent chunk of flesh with it.