Home DIY

Build the largest 'square' box that fits in the space.

How do you then fit it to he awkward walls - I'm guessing some sort of face trim that you tracewigglecut* to match the walls?

* I'm drawing a complete blank on the actual word.

IKEA spare parts site

Ordered.

I'll see what they're like and then maybe order the heavier duty ones linked up thread.

Scribe to the walls, yes. It depends on the design. It can end up being seamless with the wall. You can have a door surround or have the door encased. Lots of subtle design choices.

So it isn't really the right pump? Can you explain why?

Anyone able to give me a sense check how many hours I might expect an electrician/engineer and plumber to be on site (charging) for the following:

Gas engineer - disconnect gas hob

Sparks - Connect induction hob and create new spur for dishwasher

Plumber - plumb in new dishwasher

I'm imagining, 1 + 2 + 1 or 2 hours tops?

Get a gas Safe plumber, that be cheaper/combine two small jobs.

Could you do the plumbing off the dishwasher yourself or is it more involved based on question?

Your cooker has its own circuit rated to 32a with a 6mm supply cable, which is on the EICR.
If there’s a cooker switch, it should have a “bullnose” to supply the cooker/whatever, which looks like a light switch with a blank cover on it (and a small gap at the bottom for the cable). A socket however is only rated to 13a. High amperage equipment is designed to be “hard wired” into its circuit rather than have a plug and socket.

Because the cooker has its own circuit, it won’t trip anything else out. They may have had an electric over and a gas hob - and gas hobs need a socket to power the ignition spark.

Do you have any photos?

Side plate fixing castors will give you more room for the storage: https://www.sdslondon.co.uk/hafele-castors-and-glides/fixed-wheel-castor-35-mm.html?campaign=14861727241&content=550027201645&keyword=&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8Jv-n5--9AIVFuh3Ch0--QXlEAQYAyABEgJy5fD_BwE

I need to blank 2 ~10mm diameter holes in a piece of glass ~5mm thick (shower screen). It previously had a shelf attached but I hated it so I took it off. What I would like is essentially two chromed buttons which screw?/press? into each other on either side so that I can revert if desired. Does such a thing exist and how would I find it? The closest I’ve found are mirror screw caps, but they’re only one sided - I need double. I suppose a blob of silicon between the two would do the job but feels a little bodgy.

Question of availability. Should be able to but the ones I've spoken to so far aren't about.

Slightly more involved in that there's no stopcock in the house (or any of the houses in this section of the street). So I can imagine getting wet quickly.

Is there nothing in the street?

Ooh fun. Sounds like an old terrace?

Worth adding 'Fit stopcock' to the Things To Do list? I suspect it would be well worth it in the long run. And quite possibly the short run too.

I never said it wasn't the right pump, I said it wasn't the right pump for water which is what you said . You need a bronze pump for water that pumps for central heating which it will be but it also depends on how its fitted. Its hard to see what kind of heating system and HW system you have in. Could be gravity HW and Pumped heating or it could be fully pumped and then its fine.

for moisture robustness and air tightness you need a vapour-closed membrane above (warm side) the insulation, which is air sealed to the wall. The air seal would be achieved with a thin lime 'parge' layer of mortar on the wall onto which the membrane can be taped.

For super extra efficacy, you would also put a wind proof, vapour open membrane below the insulation to prevent 'wind wash'. This is totally optional.

For durability, the insulation will be held up with either straps or by holding up the lower membrane with wood battens nailed into the joists. Stapling the lower membrane is less robust but it works ok.

would make sure you've got adequate ventilation under there - plenty of air bricks, none of them blocked up etc

Any suggestions for cheap but not so horrible kitchen flooring to be used for a short while? We were going to redo a kitchen that really needs to be updated, but due to other works having a knock on effect it's going to be delayed six months or so. The current floor is fucked though. So something cheap to make it liveable in the meantime is the new plan. Any thoughts?

Glue down cork tiles :)

Didn't even consider cork at this stage. Thought it would be too nice/pricey for what we want at the moment (was considering it for the final kitchen). But a quick look and some of the cheaper stuff isn't too far off. If I could find some discounted left overs I think that would be an ace solution....

Do you have any photos?

I forgot to link to previous post which had it attached.

I won't spam it again but you can see it here...
https://www.lfgss.com/comments/16278337/

i think the double socket in the alcove (on left side) was probably where the cooker control outlet was located and like you said was replaced to facilitate a hob (the bit of wood on the left also looks like a remnant of that). there's nothing on the right hand wall inside the chimney (i was sure i'd find one there when we went to measure up).

I've ordered a 30A cooker to be installed on 16th dec from AO, we get the keys on the 11th, will get a sparky in to take a look and if need be fix it before the oven arrives.

Cheers

Lino/vinyl remnant from a shop?

Another good shout - thanks. Will pop into some shops later today if I can find the time. If anyone's got recommendations in Hackney/Islington I'm all ears. I don't think I've ever been in a flooring shop...

I would highly recommend Abbott's flooring in Bow.