Home DIY

sort of glue paint stuff

PVA, I believe.

The only thing I wonder about with skimming it is if you're passing the buck down to the next owner, who might ignorantly drill away at the ceiling fitting a new light/stripper pole or whatever and unknowingly expose themselves. But it's not the sort of thing you want to bring up during a sale... hmm.

Thanks!

Does anyone have any YT video recommendations for installation big pullout draws?

Neighbour is getting rid of some pull out draws from under a bed, that'll be really useful for toolclutter* storage in my shed. I'm just not sure on how best to make them pull out. I want something robust and imprecise.

Initial thought was using some old roller blade wheels I think I have.

*for context at a guess 80% of the contents will be infrequently used.

HSE guidance is to leave it in situ if possible and to seal it if the material is slightly damaged.

I'd have thought this kind of thing
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Castor-Wheels-Rubber-Trolley-Furniture/dp/B07M6PRNHG/260-5057482-5313522?psc=1

Pondering getting this kind of alcove cupboard for the bedroom, either side of a chimney breast.

The likely route is getting someone in to do it but I'm aware that will likely be fairly pricey so may not happen for a while. The alternative is me trying to make them but I could see that being fraught with issues in our house with no right angles. Has anyone made similar, how tricky was it?

Also, any ideas on how much it would cost to get someone in to do them?

If thats on your hot water its not the right pump for HW thats a heating pump, you need a bronze pump for water. New ones are quieter but aren't as powerful

Brother and I made a fire guard to fit our inglenook, very happy with how it has turned out!

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Nice, really love those bread ovens.

Oooh. They're not expensive either.

Last time I looked at something like that they cost a shitload. Probably not comparing apples with apples, but still.

Idk how permanent this setup will be so I'm keen not to blow money on it or make it too bespoke.

Yeah, its a nice feature, would prefer that it didn't take up a quarter of the garage though! I like the fact that the plate the log burner sits on is dated 1872, which is not quite as old as the house, but still pretty old.

Any old castors from B&Q would do. If they are just pulling in and out, then they don't need to pivot. I made a pull out drawer for toddler crap to go under the sofa using non-pivoting ones. Works fine and reduces the stack height. The pricey ones you saw were probably industrial ones with proper bearings in the pivot part.

Probably. I think I went into a rolling workbench deep dive.

Need to do some drawing up and measuring, but I may have one on the ground and one above which would mean a more proper draw structure equally until I have time to do some proper organising one can sit on top of the other for a while.

I still wonder about trying to make a toddler crap draw for our sofa. That was a very smart and simple idea.

Is this? A Good deal? Or will a circular saw be much better all rounder? This was mainly for cutting down for the burner

I wouldn't use a circular saw to cut logs. You want a mitre saw (if the logs are small enough in diameter) or a chainsaw. That thing should also be fine.

I wouldn't use a circular saw to cut logs

Yeah, I gave this a go. Felt very unsafe, very quickly.

Slightly cheeky (although personally I feel I spend plenty of money there) but you can probably get something suitable on the IKEA spare parts site
https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/customer-service/returns-claims/spareparts/
Try searching for 111401

hmmm, i dont know if that is hot water for the taps, or the radiators. will get back in there and see

Build the largest 'square' box that fits in the space. It saves a load of ballache especially with shelves. Make a plinth to level it too.

Price varies madly depending on materials, finish quality, interior fittings, location (in the country) etc. A quick and dirty version unpainted in thin MDF is a couple of days work. Upwards from that could be anything!

we're getting some cold air entering into kitchen from behind the
cabinets mounted on the external wall. assume this is because there's
a hole somewhere (for services?) that the builder just thought would
be out of sight, out of mind when the cabs are placed.

think I've discovered potential source for this in (unheated) basement - where the new mass abuts the old, holes have been left (e.g. to feed wiring from front of house to rear.) I assume this is just letting cold air blow right into some space behind the cabinets... not sure what the configuration is beyond these holes between the two masses and whether there are any gaps in insulation. though presume there's some gap somewhere. don't see anything on the external wall - so this seems like the most obvious ingress point. still waiting to hear from the architect. could this be fixed by stuffing these holes with rock wool? sorry about pish photies

this is v. annoying and presumably a function of the completion work being done around march 2020 just as everyone went into lockdown. this meant e.g. the architect couldn't come visit and so we had to compile our own snagging list for the defects liability period. building standards have had to do all their inspections virtually too so they haven't picked this up. hopefully the contract term (5 year contractor liability for 'faulty' work) will cover us

edit: just heard back from architect. builder's on the case whew

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Under-floorboard insulation - have i got the right idea?

bottom layer (closest to bare earth): breathable membrane (something like Tyvek?)
middle layer: the main insulation (not necessarily important whether rigid kingspan or soft rockwool type stuff)
top layer: airtight/non-breathable membrane (not sure what - could plastic sheeting suffice if gaps left by airbricks?)

essentially, I'm hoping to try to re-create this process but on the cheap if possible.

It'll be for your heating.

Cheers. Guess the box part makes sense as then you're not trying to fit everything into weird spaces.

It makes a huge difference. I guess the only reason not to do it would be material cost if you were DIYing. If it's a professionals time you're saving then it's worth it.

anyone any good with oven regs?

we're due to move into a new rental in a couple of weeks and today I had a quick chance to get in and measure up but I'm really not convinced by the location of the cooker space in the kitchen and our chances of having an installer happily fitting a cooker upon delivery potentially risking hundreds of pounds.

as you can see in attached pic they've put it into the chimney breast and stuck an extractor fan.
there's a double socket on the left below hob height which i assume is normal 13A, and on the right side is what looks like a cooker switch but there's no outlet panel for wiring the cabling into inside the chimney.

the extractor fan is 161cm from the floor so would be fine for the 65cm clearance from a 90cm cooker. the width inside is 70 with just enough space for a 60cm unit to fit in the middle, the rear gas pipe fitting would also make the unit stand 2.5cm away from the rear wall.

things that concern me...
-the side walls above hob height fall within the hot zone of 9cm either side which i'm not sure is ok
-the 13a sockets are not good enough to run all but the shittest electrical oven from
-the cooker switch is above hob height but i assume 9cm outside hot zone and i have no idea how to wire it to the cooker.

i've been hoping to get a cooker installed between our move in date and christmas but it's beginning to feel like i'm going to end up with some 50cm wide piece of shit fitted plug bullshit with solid/ceramic hobs which is useless to cook on when we actually have a budget up to about 600 for something half decent (ideally dual fuel).

any experts on here willing to weigh in?

after a ridiculously long delay the letting agents response to our questions about any having used the cooker location successfully in the past and when it was wired and how was it wired they effectively shrugged their shoulders and threw the EICR at us.

looking at the attached I'm thinking there IS a cooker ring attached to a socket but i'm not sure if the protective device rating on the cooker line of 32 (a) is the max amps it will support (i.e. can I use a 32A cooker on that circuit or will it trip it if we're using all the things at christmas.

regardless it seems i'm stuck not being able to measure the space properly until we move in on 11/12 so i'll have less than 2 weeks to order and install a cooker before everything shuts up shop for christmas.

being able to shop for potential options would help.

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• East Ham Rd EICR - page 7.pdf