Home DIY

Thanks will do! Appreciate it.

Fuck that. Need all the head space I can get. Tempted to rip out the floor to regain the cm lost to them putting boards over linoleum.

Get the self test kit, and then go from there the. Ha. I know that feeling of 'but whyyyyy?'.

Is it lath and plaster behind it?

I'm not sure. I've taken one "chandelier" down that I kept knocking my head into, so have access to a hole. I think it's just plasterboard but I'll double check tomorrow.

Yeah, will do. Cheers. If anyone has any suggestions please share. Don't really trust the copy-and-paste Amazon options.

Yes. Let me look

The azzy content will depend on its age.

Using asbestos in building became illegal in 2000 so if it was put up post that you'll be ok and can do what you want. There are products available that chemically soften the finish letting you remove it when it's damp therefore eliminating dust personally I wouldn't risk it in my house (at least not without air quality monitoring) but the option is there. Best practice is to skim or board over it.

we're getting some cold air entering into kitchen from behind the cabinets mounted on the external wall. assume this is because there's a hole somewhere (for services?) that the builder just thought would be out of sight, out of mind when the cabs are placed.

I was thinking that I'd (i) remove the kick stands, (ii) put rock wool under the cabs, then (iii) use some spray foam to fill the holes in rear of the cabs which have the services coming through. seem like a sensible plan?

1) Buy good house insurance cover

2) Buy flammable liquids to burn house down

3) Profit? Maybe not in monetary value, but in sanity.

Depends how well bonded it is, sometimes you can just scrape them off pretty good then just get someone to skim it (I do my own walls, but not ceilings, have to be very good to get ceilings looking respectable). Seen various 'flex deep smooth over' type fillers, all are going to give you random undulations as, doing ceilings to a good standard is hard.

If its really brittle stuff, you could also hire a wall sander and use that to grind them down.

Will a central heating control receiver basically always be near the boiler? Moved into a house, which has an rdj10rf controller but it has approx. fuck all influence on the behaviour of the boiler. I can't find the rcr10 433 or equivalent anywhere

More pictures if of any use. It definitely needs to go.

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I had the textured ceiling coatings in my flat tested for asbestos by a firm. Pretty cheap, albeit not in London. Gave me peace of mind for drilling and cutting etc.

No-one can definitively say what it's made of from a photo, in any situation. It must be tested.

Will a central heating control receiver basically always be near the boiler?

Obviously it needs to be wired to the boiler so it can send signals. For fucks sake. Why would there be a redundant thermostat controller if there was no receiver?

Of course not. But someone asked a question about what it's on, and I'm still hoping for a recommendation from someone on where good to get it tested. Or I'll start calling around tomorrow. Like I said, not sure I trust some of these identical testing kits online.

Good stuff. Didn't mean to imply any lack of knowledge on your part, apologies. I used a company in Scotland, and it doesn't look like they have other offices. But for reference, they charged £80 for the visit and sample collection, plus £15 per sample tested in the lab. Plus VAT. So basically very cheap. This was about 3 years ago.

Cheers, bud. But I'm an idiot so there's a huge amount of knowledge lacking. So no stress there.

Thanks for the info. Definitely reasonable.

Is it easy/possible to replace a cat flat in a double glazed door?

This one is drafty. Yes, and filthy. Dirty beasts.

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Looks like it’s a standard circular opening in the DG unit, like for an extractor fan. I imagine cat flap removal would be pretty easy, it’s probably just a couple of screws or even clips holding the inside and outside bits together, sandwiching the glass.

Yes it’s easy enough, as dbr said a few screws to undo, we did a like for like swap when we changed ours just to be doubly sure it would be ok

Thanks both. Good to know it's simple.

Another question - this pump is for the hot water. It's pretty noisy except on the lowest setting when it doesn't really get the radiators warm.

It's not that old but would a new one be quieter? Or, could it be boxed in safely?

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we're getting some cold air entering into kitchen from behind the cabinets mounted on the external wall. assume this is because there's a hole somewhere (for services?) that the builder just thought would be out of sight, out of mind when the cabs are placed.

I double checked the contract for our building work, which says:

For at least 5 years after carrying out the work the contractor will
remain responsible for any faults in the work (other than fair wear
and tear) which are caused by him.

so I've emailed the architect to double check whether this type of fault would be covered.

Plaster over it

Bit late but had a manic weekend

t: 01525 839 555 | m: 07922 983 609

Lee Ypey lee@safety-surveys.co.uk

It was in the £100 range, super easy and quick.

Once you get it tested its easy enough to get it skimmed. I can't remember, but a plaster we used on another ceiling said there's some sort of glue paint stuff they put on and leave to go off that then makes it super easy to plaster to.