Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

What, if anything, do I need to make an 11sp Shimano MTB cassette play nice with a DA 7900 freehub? I believe these are '10sp only' but does MTB 11s = MTB 10s = Road 10s with Shimano cassette widths? I've got a funny feeling it's spacers, but less than the 1.85mm one...

Road 10 speed is 1mm narrower than both MTB 10 speed and road 9 speed.

You can’t run anything other than 10 speed road cassettes without a visit to a machine shop AFAIK.

Bollocks. Inverse spacers are like hen's teeth these days too. Cheers anyway 👍

When installing disc brakes, does one need a front and back brake or can you install a brake marketed for the front on the back?

Specifically:
https://www.bol.com/nl/nl/p/remdeel-trp-remklauw-voor-spyre-fm-flatmount-md-610-incl-remschijf-16-zwart/9200000075492809/

What, if anything, do I need to make an 11sp Shimano MTB cassette play nice with a DA 7900 freehub?

Nothing. An 11spd MTB cassette has the same width as a 9sp road cassette. You don't need any spacers on an 8/9/10 speed freehub, you'll need a 1.8mm spacer on an 11 speed road freehub. According to the Shimano compatibility chart.

Standard flatmount calipers are the same front and rear but use different adaptors, or in the case of the rear, possibly no adaptor, depending on the rotor size. However, that caliper looks like it's designed to fit on the front but without the adaptor. It definitely wouldn't fit on the rear of a bike designed for a standard flat mount caliper.

On the other hand, they may well have just fucked up the photo and that's a picture of the post-mount caliper rather than the flat-mount caliper. Seems distinctly possible given the photos used on other sites for the same EAN.

Aah, that's good to know.

I won't take my chances and try to find somewhere else to buy the spyres then!

Has anyone encountered problems with the reach adjust bolt on SRAM 11 HRD? Over the course of a long ride (I assume) the bolt moves until the lever hits the bar at which point the brake becomes useless.

Guess I just threadlock it in?

(No I won't get Shimano)

On the other hand, they may well have just fucked up the photo and that's a picture of the post-mount caliper rather than the flat-mount caliper.

@rodhusk yeah that’s definitely a post mount caliper in the photo.

safe! Couldn't find any other spyres so I order road bb7's. I already had mtb bb7's but wasn't sure if they would work with my 5700 sti's.

Yep, having the exact same problem with my Rival levers. Oddly, I only seem to notice it on my homeward commute, when it's felt fine in the morning. I haven't bothered threadlocking it because my hamfistedness means I'll probably drop the screw while trying to take it out. I'm just tightening it up again whenever I notice it, and it's fine until the next time it does it again

I don't know if the screw actually comes out which makes threadlocking it difficult - I think it just rotates and moves something else internally.

I also just continually tighten it up but it is annoying

Any reason why Shimano GRX600/105 bracket cover hoods wouldn't fit nicely on Shimano GRX810?

The 810 are ribbed for your discomfort and I'd like them smooth...

I’ve got an old British track frame and having a weird issue with the bb, the threads in the shell are all clean and tidy, however when I put in a bb it seems to be loose (ie it moves in the shell) also when I put in the left hand side it’s pushing out the right!? I’ve tried a few different bbs and it’s the same each time.
Is the shell knackered/worn and if so is it worth retapping it to Italian threading, or should I risk my life using thread lock and crossed fingers???

Don't just thread lock it and ride it. Figure it out for the sake of your teeth.

I will caveat the rest of this by saying that I'm unaware of archaic niche BB standards and an assuming the frame ought to be BSA threaded.

Measure the width of the shell, i.e. from one circular face to the other. Unless there's an ancient British track standard I don't know about, you're hoping for 68mm. If it's less than this then check the frame BB circular faces. Have they been attacked? Are they actually in suspiciously tidy, crisp condition suggesting they have been over-faced?

If you've got calipers then measure the ID of the frame BB threads. You're hoping for 33.6-33.9 mm.

Look at the frame BB threads. Have you double checked that you've got one left-handed thread (drive side) and one right-handed thread (NDS)?

Thanks for the advice, I’ve checked and the bb is a standard 68mm, I fear that the threads might have been tapped one too many times and now don’t have enough bite left in them. I’ll take it to my local lbs and see what they say. Anyone ever tried a press fit bb for a square taper crank???

Threadless BBs are a thing, they do work. You can also get a frame builder to braze in new threads if it's worth doing so.

I've got a chinese hollow tech crankset that I acquired with no fixing bolt , I bought a FC-M980 fixing bolt for preloading them as a punt that it may work. The FC-M980 bolt is slightly too big to thread into the cranks I have, any idea which model number hollowtech fixing bolt I may need? I know there is a lot and maybe three XTR crank models use fixing bolts that have slightly smaller flange diameter - could that be the one I need?

I need easier gears on a budget.
I'm currently running a 12-36 cassette, slx m662 9 speed rear mech and a 33t chainring on a double.

Thinking of switching to a 26 or 28t up front on a triple run as a 1x

Will this work ok? Chainline will be off so I guess the chain will wear quicker?

It's on long tail cargo bike so only using it for bezzing around town.

^edited the post for clarity

If it's a long tail, I suspect the added length between chainring and cassette mean chainline is not really a problem

If you are changing BB anyway, then you could just get a BB that is a little longer than recommended for the triple. And eat the slight increase in Q factor, of course.

If the triple chainset requires an assymetric BB then this is a little more tricky.

What's the BCD of your current double chainset?

Hadn't thought of that thanks

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