Home DIY

Had one in my flat in lieu of a proper kitchen extractor. Ended up just running wiring it to run on boost only, rather than the permanent low run as it didn't seem to recover that much heat and was a bit noisy. Seemed quite agriculture for the cost when I opened it up. They require a drain point for condensation. I think mine was a vent axia.

Started thinking about it again recently, I reckon an unused chimney would be a good route for the clean air in, pumping it in at ground floor and extracting humid air on the top floor to go with the natural route of warm, humid air. Probably a hassle to install though.

i've read that there is a pretty quality (and results) huge gap in low end to high end, particularly around the quality of materials and forethought of installation layout, etc

I'm sure, for that scenario I wouldn't choose to go that route again, but for a whole house I could see it making sense if you can figure out a way of getting the installation right.

That's exactly it.

My wife is also really struggling with with her dust mite allergy and with the right filters etc this is supposed to be very good for that which is an other bonus

I've an issue with a drain not playing well with the pipe underneath. Hidden by the locknut there's a rubber seal glued to the tailpiece(?) but it doesn't sit with the bottom of the metal part above. As a result it leaks.
Any idea?

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Isn't that locknut crossthreaded?
It will be 'tight' before the rubber seal is compressed.

Yeah, that plastic nut looks like it's on the piss. I hate dealing with water/plumbing.

It's not. It gets wonky when you tighten it up because half the seal ends up in the middle. I tried the locknut on its own and it's straight.

@stevo_com I can't say I enjoy it very much...

Could try a new trap, I only really buy mcalpine stuff I think its the best

Hi,
Can you easily find a replacement seal/washer?
Does the vertical white plastic pipe seat into the threaded metal?
Is there a chamfered rubber seal/washer that ensures the white plastic pipe is correctly positioned into the threaded metal?

get a man in

Or a woman.

Looks like buying the whole lock is the easiest option.

anybody got any experience of the Festool Carvex jigsaws? I have been asked to fit some transfer grills in 6 doors at work and thought this might be a good excuse to buy a new jigsaw

I get a whiff coming from my kitchen sink plughole when I take the plug out or run a lot of water down the plughole.

I've tried some drain cleaner down the sink but doesn't seem to make any difference. Any suggestions what might fix it/where to look?

Have you looked outside when it drains into? give that a flush - any other appliance connected to the drain - washing machine/dish washer??

Empty the trap (if you can). Make sure you put a lot more water through after the drain cleaner before you break into it!

What ever makes you feel better.

1/I guess I could shop for one, but not sure what to buy shape or size-wise.
2/ the outer circle of the flat rubber seal is the same size than the threaded metal part, so it moves to the centre.
3/ not on that end, on the other bits yes, no issues there.

Thanks.

Often the case. Crazy really.

Re routers - I want to put radius corners on a table top which is 28mm hardwood ply with Laminate top. Then 45 bevel on the edges. I’ll either make or buy a template for the corners but anyone advise If a 1/4 router will do this - worktops are typically done with 1/2” I think. ?

1/4” will do both with lots of passes. How big is the chamfer?

cheers - with the chamfer on the top its to clean up the edge where the laminate has chipped so I think will be 5mm at least - on the bottom edge i might do the same or go bigger to make a thinner edge profile - if it seems easy.

Re. radius - when you say lots of passes - i was thinking to make a template - trim excess with jigsaw close to the cut line and then use a flush trim bit with a bearing against the template. then remove template and bearing follows cut edge to get full depth cut - makey sense ?

Yup, all of that makes sense. One pass for the top chamfer, maybe sneak up on the bottom one if it's deep.

Not sure I'd bother with the jigsawing, just go from the top down with the bearing bit. I have some handy templates if you'd like to borrow them.