Pre 1950s rides of LFGSS: old bikes, vintage rats, classic lightweights

Right-o :)

Well, I'm afraid I beg to differ with The Gren on this point.

It's certainly true that the freewheel body can be removed in this way, but re-assembly is tricky and needs nimble fingers.

As I implied in my post, using a remover which isn't a good fit, or using the correct remover carelessly will end in disaster. However even if you do break the slots you can then resort to The Gren's solution by removing the face plate and dismantling the freewheel. Then you can unscrew the body as he describes, but I'm afraid I would put the whole lot in the bin at that point!

I'd say it's not often that you can improve the freewheel by 'servicing'; two things you can do by just removing the plate (and keeping the whole thing on its back so it doesn't come to pieces) 1. Give it a good oiling, without getting grit into the bearing, and 2. if the freewheel bearing is a bit loose you may be able to improve it by removing a shim from under the face plate.

It's important to understand that these blocks (whatever make) take a lot of punishment in use and should be regarded as disposable items, because if they're not in good condition the bike just won't work as it should. The most common fault is that one sprocket is slightly worn and will not run with a new chain, which jumps over it. In the old days a decent bike shop would have spare sprockets and could change them, but not any more.

Urr, not clear at all what I should do now so will do nothing for a bit other than more research.
At least that way I’ll not break anything ha ha.

Sorry if I've caused you to be confused.

Let's start again.

Why do you want to remove the block from the hub?

If it's just for cleaning purposes, I'd leave where it is and clean round it.

If it's knackered then it doesn't matter - use The Gren's method and throw away the remains.

It's unlikely that you'll get away with using the old chain so, if in doubt, try a new chain on that block - if none of the sprockets jump, it's worth persevering with it.

What sprockets have you got? The most common five speed blocks are 14-16- 18- 20 & 22. If that's what you want it should be cheap and easy to find a replacement. Remember, once the block's screwed on the hub no one will know whether it's a Cyclo or a Shimano.

Edit.

I’m an idiot.
I’ve just looked again.
It’s just a single speed cog threaded on. I can just take that off.

No, I’m definitely the one confusing things here!
As I’m going to rebuild the wheels, I’d usually approach this by removing a block so as I can give everything a good clean. I kind of assumed that this - a single speed - block could be spun off the hub?
Then that can get cleaned up but I wasn’t planning on opening up the internals, which I think I might have mistakenly inferred. Far too much skill involved there which I don’t have.
The thing spins ok and doesn’t sound gritty and am hoping it might be good to keep.
Also, I do want to get the hub bearings out to clean up so to get the axle etc. out, again I assumed the block would need to come off first?
However I’d be much happier if all I need to do is leave it in place!
It’s a Cyclo Type B, 16t, front ring is a 48
The chain actually looks quite good so I’ll definitely give it a go when we get to that point.

In the process of trying to restore this old skip find Witcomb but apparently the fork threads are screwed meaning the fork is beyond use. Does anyone in South London have a steel fork lying around that could work?

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Chainstays near the BB don't look very happy

…but on the plus side, the seatpost is not stuck!

It’s been shot blasted and is structurally sound, just the fork to resolve!

I'd ask for a frame maker (Wilston Was?) to redo the fork steerer.

Yeah it’s in with Winston, he doesn’t think the fork is salvageable.

Oh ok then :)

Yeah could do

Good price for the seller, Can't fathom paying that amount of money for pedals.

As I’m going to rebuild the wheels,

'rebuilding wheels' normally means respoking - in that case you will certainly need to remove the freewheel.

The word 'block' (in this context) implies a freewheel with multiple sprockets.

If you just want to clean the hub bearings, you should be able to do that leaving that single freewheel (that's what they are called) in place.

It's worth pointing out that 48 x 16 gives an uncomfortably high gear for general use. In inches it would be three times the wheel size - 78" on 26's or 81" on 27's. and about half way in between for 700's.

P.S. Sorry! I've just looked back to your original post and I see you did call it a 'freewheel'. I was me who wrongly assumed it was a block because you mentioned it was a Cyclo. I do know that Cyclo made single freewheels and I've got one in my parts bin - I just thought mine was the only one left in the world!

LBS won't have a bloody clue ! Maybe someone here can help you.
Watch this video - but take the pawls out, before you use the pipe wrench, and you can reuse the whole block afterwards. I've done it dozens of times.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WsVL1XqZve8

Pins are about and are salvageable, Durax chainset cleaned up and teeth look good (am I right? Hardly appear to be worn to me?) and the gunk preserved some of the plating quite well.
Next job, TDC bb to come out.

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Beautifully skinny chainset!

Hope I don’t break it lol

BB came out without any effort, remarkable. Cleaned up its in amazing condition also.
Slight ‘snag’ is the plan to use the bb end to flood the seat tube with plus gas to try and free the post… and the reason for the bb quality is a kind of shim inside the bb casting action as a shield of sorts. Never seen this before. Not sure if should / try and remove it? Will have a look later to see if there’s a join (so if it’s ‘sprung’ in.)
Hmm.

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Well, having had a closer look it appears that’s how the thing is cast. There’s no hairline joint / where a shim could be overlapped to spring in and the bb threads run right in, so appears to be a continuous surface. Could that be possible?
Is it a ‘holeless’ tube for structural reasons, given the lugless construction?

Sorry to bust in on this technical conversation but I just dug this pair of pedals out of the spares box where they've been since the days of steam. They are Zenith Olympic Sprints, in steel, obviously a Campag Strada copy. Bearings are smooth as silk! Does any of you gents want to make me an offer before they go on eBay?

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From Velorama (Dutch bicycle museum)

Check out the front brake with a leash!

Those are lovely. Have no idea of the market value. Anyone have a guess? Would look lovely on my Mistral.

They are for sale on eBay now so the market will tell us