-
Thanks, that means I will probably have a local framebuilder drill through holes on the bridges so that I can use nylstop nuts instead of having to rely on loctite. A little less pretty but I don't want to have to use a q-tip and acetone each time I remove my mudguards.
@motoko : I've been looking for this article for a while, but I can't manage to find this issue in France (BQ 34 I believe?), and I don't think they're available online. Any chance you could tell me what JP Weigle recommends when it comes to leather washers? Does he put them between the mudguard and the bridge exclusively, or does he also put one under between the bolt and the mudguard?
Veblen-
More mudguard forming tricks here from Wake Robin.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CVFn2ECF5_J/?utm_medium=copy_link
motoko
Loctite is an adhesive, and any adhesive only works properly if the surfaces are cleaned. For a steel on steel bond, Loctite 243 shouldn't be too sensitive though.
Just make sure with Loctite you tighten it immediately and then leave it. If it cures and then you break the bond, you have to take the bolt out and re-apply it.
If you want something stronger the Loctite 290 (green) is the standard.