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Kreg dowelling jig
Don't suppose you have a link to the relevant kit?
520Pro?
There seem to be lots of potential bits.and options.
Cheers.
hugo7-
That's a pocket hole jig, and if I was doing pocket holes I would have bought the old K4 with the built in clamp. I suppose the 720 is its replacement. The smaller kit apparently moves about too much.
For dowels I actually use the Wolfcraft Dowelmaster jig, together with a couple of dedicated drill bits that have depth-stop-collars fitted to them at the correct heights. https://www.wolfcraft.com/products/wolfcraft/en/EUR/Products/Attachments-for-Machines/Drill-Guides/Dowelmaster---dowel-gauge-for-wood-joints/p/P_4640
I do use the Kreg shelf pin jig for adjustable shelving, and it consistently gives you perfectly spaced and aligned holes, - make sure you get the European standard 5mm version rather than the imperial sized one the Americans use. You can connect a couple together if you're feeling rich enough to buy several, but I just use one and drill 5 holes at time, then move it.
bq
I wouldn't go for biscuit joints for two reasons:
A hand-held router is all I have at the mo, and somewhere upthread is a lovely oak and leather desk I made with routed fingerpulls, so you can do a great job with the cheapest of them. But they do like to tip. You need a lot of patience and to take great care. If you're using hardwood it's a lot more difficult not to end up with burned wood, gouges etc and hardwood is a lot more expensive.
You can buy or make cheap tables for them, but a garage door is a big thing. I like Aaron's suggestion of making a custom baseplate for the job. I think that may work as well as a table for cutting grooves and tongues, but for making thin fenestrations I think a table may be the only way.
Floating tenons may work very well. Good shout.