The fork of a Bob Yak trailer mounts to the rear dropouts using two bobbins -- grooved metal outer sleeves that attach to the outside of the quick release (qr) fittings of the replacement skewer provided. When the skewer is inserted with the lever in the closed position between 10mm and 19mm of thread must be exposed where the skewer exits the outside of the the dropout. Any excess needs to be removed with a hacksaw and the end of the threads rounded with a file (or 180 grit abrasive paper, which I used), leaving the skewer as long as possible. Two M5 nuts were fitted first, so that the thread would be reformed when they were removed after the sawing and filing. In the case of my Eclipse Countryman with a dropout width of 126mm, I had to saw off 6mm to reach a 19mm protrusion. However, I found that the adjustable (non-lever) outside fitting would not tighten sufficiently, allowing the qr lever to close too easily (the fitting for the bobbin bolt is the same threaded channel as the skewer is inserted into, so they can collide internally). I filed off a further 1mm and tried the lever, which seemed to tighten better, though still not as tightly on the maximum setting as the Campagnolo qr.
Unfortunately, when I took the bike for trials, the rear wheel moved in the horizontal dropouts. Finally, I removed a further 2mm from the skewer, leaving 16mm of thread exposed, which now allows the qr to be set so that the effort to close the lever is greater than the Campagnolo one. At the maximum setting I cannot even close it. It should still be adjustable for a modern 130mm dropout width, but probably not a 135mm. I do have a spare uncut BOB skewer that can be used if the need arises. The bobbins both needed to be reversed so that their grooves face outwards, which then matches the width of the trailer fork.
The good news is that there is masses of clearance between the trailer's fork and the bicycle's rear mudguard/rack and derailleur fittings. So the fork can pivot upwards and downwards at severe angles, e.g., going up or down a steep ramp, with no risk of fouling the bike parts.
The fork of a Bob Yak trailer mounts to the rear dropouts using two bobbins -- grooved metal outer sleeves that attach to the outside of the quick release (qr) fittings of the replacement skewer provided. When the skewer is inserted with the lever in the closed position between 10mm and 19mm of thread must be exposed where the skewer exits the outside of the the dropout. Any excess needs to be removed with a hacksaw and the end of the threads rounded with a file (or 180 grit abrasive paper, which I used), leaving the skewer as long as possible. Two M5 nuts were fitted first, so that the thread would be reformed when they were removed after the sawing and filing. In the case of my Eclipse Countryman with a dropout width of 126mm, I had to saw off 6mm to reach a 19mm protrusion. However, I found that the adjustable (non-lever) outside fitting would not tighten sufficiently, allowing the qr lever to close too easily (the fitting for the bobbin bolt is the same threaded channel as the skewer is inserted into, so they can collide internally). I filed off a further 1mm and tried the lever, which seemed to tighten better, though still not as tightly on the maximum setting as the Campagnolo qr.
Unfortunately, when I took the bike for trials, the rear wheel moved in the horizontal dropouts. Finally, I removed a further 2mm from the skewer, leaving 16mm of thread exposed, which now allows the qr to be set so that the effort to close the lever is greater than the Campagnolo one. At the maximum setting I cannot even close it. It should still be adjustable for a modern 130mm dropout width, but probably not a 135mm. I do have a spare uncut BOB skewer that can be used if the need arises. The bobbins both needed to be reversed so that their grooves face outwards, which then matches the width of the trailer fork.
The good news is that there is masses of clearance between the trailer's fork and the bicycle's rear mudguard/rack and derailleur fittings. So the fork can pivot upwards and downwards at severe angles, e.g., going up or down a steep ramp, with no risk of fouling the bike parts.
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