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  • It's actually easier to build up the edges as the cut edge is pretty rough. I have edged a lot of fire door blanks by gluing and pinning. Fit them a bit oversize and trim them to the faces with a palm router or plane. Clamps are very helpful, you can forgo pins if your clamping works well enough and that saves time on finishing and also saves you ruining plane blades or chisels if you need to work the edge.

    Bevelling the edges is kind of personal taste. It helps to paint them. I might not understand what you're asking though. I run a plane down the edge or knock it off with a sander.

    Making a jig is pretty straightforward. I bought some helpful bits and pieces because I do quite a few of them. Practice makes perfect with a chisel, I find it easier in hardwood (which I would use for the edges) because there's a more even grain.

    Hopefully this advice is has the requisite amount of charm for the judges.

    p.s. they are heavy. You might not be able to man handle an 8x4 one. I made 2 pairs of double bifold for a flat once and lost a few kilos from the effort.

  • It's actually easier to build up the edges as the cut edge is pretty rough.

    And my cutting is not the straightest.

    I'm guessing that planes hardwood trim is the way to go for the build up bits?

    Re: bevelling (probably the wrong term) I mean cutting the sides down off square (by 2 - 3 degrees) to prevent sticking.

    I've a bunch of 19mm ply offcuts, so I can at least attempt a few jigs. And to practice with a chisel.

    Weight-wise, the full sheet door is 42kg - the smaller size would be ~29kg. Not fun, but not completely unmanageable. Hopefully a surplus of clamps and air wedges will make it doable.

    Much appreciated - thanks!

  • The problem with the 8x4 is 4 foot is quite a stretch to apply all your lifting force and 8 ft is the height of most ceilings so you mostly need to handle it on it's side indoors.

    I run down the hardwood strips from larger stock on a trim saw (small table saw). Sapele usually. It's pretty boring if you have 8-10 of them to do but doing 1 is quite achievable.

    The bevel, a few degrees, yes that's a thing you can do at the fitting stage. I dial it in with the track saw. I'm not sure you have to have it but it helps to maintain a narrow gap at the visible edge.

    I'm pretty sure someone did a breakdown of hanging doors on here not so long ago. It's easier to do than it is to think about sometimes.

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