Any question answered...

How do SRAM Two Axis brake levers work? I can't find much online about them. Seems like a forgotten relic.

I'm not looking to buy any. Just interested.

EDIT: This is somewhat helpful. But still not entirely sure. I can brake by rotating the lever blade? Why would I want to do that?

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OK this is the best I could find. The blade merely rotates as the lever is pulled. Not sure how much its worth the over complicated lever design. Obviously not worth it as they don't seem to make them anymore.

*

Looking like the lost appendage of a baby dolphin, the brake
lever/paddle rotates down and inward as you pull, presumably to take
advantage of the curling motion of your fingers as you apply the
brakes. There's even a conical quarter cog, that can be seen turning,
when the levers in action (there may or may not have a been a cover
over that part - dunno).

*

There was a cover. It was shiny silver.

This light is flashing. I'd guess probably the power supply failing.

I haven't found a PS available from Eternal, or another elsewhere with the same 380ma constant current 48V. 350ma exist

NN8 6AB is their postcode, so a red herring as far as part numbers.

Any pointers for a suitable replacement, or fix.

Thanks
Neil.

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Why would I want to do that?

The path of the lever is closer to the natural path of your fingers as you close you grip. I can see their being particularly nice when combined with Ergon grips.

350ma exist

Driving LEDs designed for 380mA at 350mA will be fine. The output is more or less directly proportional to current in that range, so you'll lose about 10% brightness.

My Felt TT bars failed at speed, as I got out the saddle for a big grunt uphill.

It all seemed to happen in a microsecond, one moment, riding a bike, the next, in a ditch with mangled shoulder, less facial skin than usual and a lot of blood everywhere and a fractured cheekbone.

They had a LOT of miles on them, around 85,000 so I should have expected it, if I'd known they had a finite life.

I now have PlanetX carbon bars and the Felt has been retired. As was the Giro AirAttack helmet which was cracked in several places but did a great job.

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Got a little something on your face there.

I'm assuming this was a while ago and you're all back to full strength now with a few cool scars.

Think I'd probably trust old aluminium bars more than planet X carbon ones tbh

Bit further out but Paradise Cycles or Bikefix should have them.

Yes, a New Year's Day TT, 2018 - here's a better pic of the break in the bar - a weld failure.

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Heck of a beard.

Tester and @PhilDAS - I was picturing more of a sudden shearing of half the handlebar at speed rather than a controlled or otherwise anticipated event. However I can now imagine how it can be done ;)

I was picturing more of a sudden shearing of half the handlebar at speed rather than a controlled or otherwise anticipated event

It's anticipated, but often rather uncontrolled when it happens. Once a crack is established, the breaking strength is dramatically reduced but the stiffness much less so, so unless you inspect very carefully you don't notice the crack. Then, at the most inopportune moment, what would normally just be a high load cycle (e.g. sprint) becomes a critical overload. The downside of heat treated alloys is that getting all that extra strength is usually accompanied by a much reduced elongation at fracture, so parts don't sag in a potentially recoverable way, they come off in your hand all of a sudden (see Kirichenko) and you end up in the ditch (see GrahamLaming)

weld failure

There were enough of those in the early welded tribars for RTTC to issue a safety bulletin advising against use.

He doesn't even wobble, that's amazing.

doesn't even wobble

If you're good (and he was - Olympic champion in 88 and world champion in 1990), you shouldn't be putting much load through the bars that far into a kilo. He'd certainly have gone down if it had happened in the first 100m

Until only a couple of years ago the Brompton owners’ manual said this.

Bit late to the party, but my dad took his Brompton to get a major service and the guy apparently said the alu parts should be replaced.

I assumed it was just a shake down. But now it looks like I may have been a bit harsh.

Is the best option to remove playdoh from a USB to wait for it to dry?

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Freezer?

Is it ok to out @howard as a roller blader?

Yesterday one of my bottle cage bolts head sheered off.
How easily can the remaining part be removed?
Who’s the best bet in SE area?

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I'm not sure he's the hanging around Greenwich peninsula at night kind of rollerblader though. None of them wear skinsuits.

Nothing to loose I guess.

Good squirt of lube (WD/GT), small bladed screwdriver, that should come out easily enough (or in, then remove seatpost to retrieve bolt).

Won’t the screw driver need something to bite? Seems like it’ll be pretty tricky to do with how recessed it is.