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• #31727
When you say first fix, you mean cables and back boxes in, but nothing actually connected up?
Pretty much, yes - although the shed side of the office can be connected up, as there is no plastering / tarting up, and all the electrics will be through conduit. That's the side that would have the consumer unit too.
Also, that the SWA could be connected up at both ends, and then connected to the house CU.
In the office side, I was thinking that all the cabling would be done (for a ring, lights, underfloor heating, smoke alarm, and a placeholder for a possible aircon unit).
In my head, second fix would be connecting up the connecting up the sockets, lights, heating, once I have done the plasterboard & floor.
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• #31728
Drafty chimney woes continued: I've managed to reduce the drafts getting from the boarded up chimney behind the stud wall, so now the draft is only coming out of the fireplace hit and miss vent, and strongly. I've realised there's no cowl on the top of the chimney stack but we can't get there without scaffolding so it's likely to only happen next year when we get the roof renovated. In the meantime, which is the least worst option in terms of causing damp?
- Install a chimney sheep or chimney balloon and leave the hit and miss vent at the fireplace open
- Don't install a chimney sheep but close the hit and miss vent when it's particularly cold (which is likely to be quite a lot of the winter)
- A.N.Other (maybe install a chimney sheep but trap a bit of tube/conduit down the side of it to allow a little bit of airflow?
- Install a chimney sheep or chimney balloon and leave the hit and miss vent at the fireplace open
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• #31729
Isn't the point of the chimney sheep that it allows some airflow?
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• #31730
A roofer can probably fit a cowl or cap without a scaffold tbh - is there something special about your gaff that precludes a set of ladders?
We’ve had our non used pots cowled and will fit a sheep or similar over winter. Should be enough ventilation for the minimal amount of moisture that can get in.
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• #31731
It's a Glasgow tenement and the chimneys are very tall, the roofers we've had out are not keen to get up the chimney stack though they'll happily walk all over the mossy, wet roof in trainers which seems mad to me.
Cheers @aggi, I hadn't realised that that was a difference between the balloon and the sheep.
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• #31732
I’ll be honest, most sparks I know aren’t interested in doing half the job for you to finish up (I might be misunderstanding you on this, if so ignore me). Having a break while it’s boarded and plastered is one thing, but they won’t want to leave work to be completed by a non-spark. It’ll need to be tested once second fixed before it gets put into service.
You’ll need to get quotes for the whole job, breaking it into small pieces makes it a lot less desirable. Having a gap for works to be completed is fine as long as they know the schedule.
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• #31733
I've not explained myself particularly well, I think - I'd want a registered spark to do all the design, install & testing and paper work (bar the SWA burying, as I did that 3 years ago) - It's just that my schedule is rather loose, being a DIY build.
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• #31734
I get you. Loose scheduling can be tricky. Some won’t mind being flexible, but multiple trips to do small bits of work is never as profitable as turning up for a couple days and doing the lot.
Organising your own plans to maximise what can be done by the spark on each visit, and giving them set dates for when the work is to be done will definitely help, but it’s still a pain that they might just want to avoid.
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• #31735
Agreed.
I just had a sparks over, and, luckily, his suggestions match up to mine. Let's see what his quote comes out like!
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• #31736
@Spxtz I would persist with contacting roofers. Most access to Glasgow tenement roofs is very straightforward as there is often a gully in the middle.
We stuck a chimney sheep thing in our tenement chimney that wasn't being used and it made loads of difference. But I would still try and get a cowl as that's going to be letting quite a bit of rain in presumably?
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• #31737
theres an indeset fridge freezer in our utility room from when we moved in, it doesnt get alot of use but is the only freezer in the house, since wednesday it has been making a non-stop 'brrr'ing and everything in the fridge is REALLY COLD, but not frozen. its loud enough that we can hear it through the floor in the lounge above.
when i switch it off and back on againn it stops for an hour or so then comes back and doesnt stop.
ive tried switching it off for a few hours before turning back on, same problem.
what next..? im guessing the thermostat thinks its not cold enough?
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• #31738
Compressor fucked?
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• #31739
Ah wicked! Feel bad, I painted quite a bleak picture of what it might be like - glad you’ve found someone who’s keen.
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• #31740
Not DIYing this but thought those following the rotten window frame chat upthread might appreciate this.
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• #31741
Will be fun fixing that up
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• #31742
I’ll try to post photos of progress on here. Chippy has the first job to do.
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• #31743
this morning it has desfrosted itself
still making horrible noise, but everything is melted, nothing in fridge is closed.
RIP.
I;m guessing a £300 indesit fridge freeze will not be economical to repair..
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• #31744
I’d do some googling of the model number and the symptoms - YouTube and forums can have some fairly specific advice. But beyond that it might be curtains, as you’ll just end up paying for a service call to be told it’s fucked.
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• #31745
Originally asked the carpenter from Shit Builder Co. for panelled doors on the airing cupboard. He did not bother. So adding strips of 3mm thick MDF for the effect.
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• #31746
1 down 3 to go. MDF cuts with a Stanley, which makes it a lot easier/neater
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• #31747
The front of the house is done. My first experience of building a door frame and hanging a door turned out surprisingly well. I'm not sure I'd do it again as it really is a magical art to make a door hang straight. The tiling on the floor took longer than expected, it looks a bit sloppy close-up but good in dimly lit night photos.
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• #31748
MDF cuts with a Stanley,
You actual madman, fair play and I doff my cap to your persistence.
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• #31749
Ordered the strips already cut to width. I didn't have to do 2m rip cuts thank god, just cutting to length
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• #31750
And 3mm MDF takes just a few strokes with a sharp/new blade
If you want to set yourself up for life, Screwfix do a big metal assorted case of stainless screws. Depending how many you use, you might even save money in the long run. For specific sizes I’d go Spax, also from Screwfix or your favoured online retailer.