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• #1302
Thanks, made a sneaky edit because I didn't know if my post was clear but you got it. I'm looking for the path of least resistance so might just order an internal antenna first and see if that does the job.
Edit: oh PoE, that could be a pretty neat solution actually.
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• #1303
Actually, not sure I fully understand. That product seems to be an access point, which are usually used, err, 'upstream' of the bit before the internetz fly through the air. Is there something special about this one that means it could be used basically as a big WiFi adapter? Or is it just a case of sticking a usb Ethernet adapter between the WAP and the computer, and would that work with pretty much any access point?
Another edit: I know some unifi APs can do wireless uplink, and the uplink APs are unifi, but I don't have access to configure them, so the 'downlink' AP will have to just act as a dumb wi-fi adapter.
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• #1304
If I have understood the MicroTik product correctly you can either use them as a pair or use one as a CPE, in which case you can connect to another AP. The PDF is a little clearer https://i.mt.lv/cdn/product_files/LHG_5_all_180105.pdf
If I've understood it correctly the only other thing you need is a PoE switch to power it and connect your PC. If you have a wireless client at your end you would need a second AP of some sort.
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• #1305
Looking for some advice regarding extending home wifi, featuring a shiny diagram.
We live in a two storey apartment. Bottom floor is one long room, top floor is trisected. Diagram shows a side cross section. Router is at the front lower floor of the apartment (D), our office/spare bedroom is at the back of the top floor (A). Wifi is already pretty crappy (30mb/s) but the distance seems to cause it to cut out completely quite regularly.
I am thinking that a TP Link Deco M4 2 pack might do the trick; would it work having one connected to the router and one in the office/spare bedroom?
Any other suggestions welcome, and thanks in advance for any advice.
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• #1306
If you can get a cable between D and A then put a pair of APs with cables back to the router in D and A. Something like a pair of Ubiquiti UNIFI APs.
If you can't get a cable in you could go with PowerLine and make the radio hams sad but that works less well across different ring mains and there is a reasonable chance that you have a ring for upstairs and a different one for downstairs.
3rd option is as you say something like a pair of TP Link Deco. Again turn off WiFi in your router and then put one Deco next to it in D. Put the second in B so it has a decent signal to the other and likely a decent signal to A as well.
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• #1308
Hadn't considered the Powerline option, would something like this be a good option?
Yes, they can work quite well as your aren't sharing the WiFi spectrum for the link between units. I use something similar, also Devolo, to get wired Ethernet to where I can't get a cable. Apparently I get 538Mbps between the units.
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• #1309
Any other suggestions welcome, and thanks in advance for any advice
If you weren't averse to running a cable part way, moving the router to the bottom or top of the stairs would likely solve the problem without further kit.
Or Deco connected to the router and the second at C or maybe top of stairs
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• #1310
Thanks for all the answers. I think I will try the slightly longer cable to get it in a more central location and then if that doesn't work, invest in a more involved solution.
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• #1311
Getting work done (loft extension) and electrician is installing ethernet points in a couple of rooms (loft bedroom and another bedroom).
The other bedroom already has a PC that is currently just using WiFi, so I will just be wiring that connection.
In the loft, what, if anything, can I do to use that ethernet point to extend WiFi to that room?
EDIT: Is this what I want? https://www.amazon.co.uk/EAP115-UK-Wireless-Controller-Software/dp/B01IR41LJY/ref=psdc_430580031_t1_B08FRM31NG
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• #1312
Happily just moving the router a few metres closer and one metre off the ground seems to have helped, as well as allowing a wired connection to the smart tv, which in turn made me realise our apple tv was now redundant and can be removed from the system. So an overall improvement and streamlining of the system. Once again, thanks for all the advice.
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• #1313
Yep, lots of different options depending on exactly how you want to set things up and how much you want to spend. Getting the ethernet in between the new wi-fi and your existing router is the important part.
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• #1314
Great. Good to know. I'm not naïve enough to think I can just plug something into the socket and expect it to appear as a network that I sign into with my existing WiFi password, but that would be the dream.
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• #1315
Well that's where the how much you want to spend bit comes in.
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• #1316
I was going to buy an Amazon wifi mesh system or TP-Link powerline mesh, so preferably no more than either of those (£280 and £150)
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• #1317
So, small update as I'm slightly puzzled by what's happening.
Moved router closer to all devices. Speed test says 150% better speed than in the same spot pre-move, great. But the Sonos system now seems to be much more disrupted (e.g. when I ran the speed test, sonos completely stopped until it was finished).
Current devices are:
Macbook, iphone, 2x Sonos Play 1 connected wirelessly to single router.
LG smart tv wired connection to same router (tv turned off most of the time).
I know Sonos have a bit of a reputation for network disruption, but anything obvious I'm missing? Thanks
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• #1318
Anybody here have a decent wifi 6 mesh setup? Probably doesn't need to be mesh actually as I can do wired backhaul fairly easily.
Since getting gigabit fibre I'm starting to wonder whether I should upgrade the two APs in our flat.
Getting about 200Mbps to 300Mbps using our old Google Wifi AC1200 points. Anybody got any first hand experience on whether I could expect significantly more from my devices (most have wifi 6) if I upgrade my APs?
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• #1319
I would put a mesh router in D, and a mesh point in C.
Assumptions: Floors are wood and signals pass through them pretty well. Signal path from D > C is good.
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• #1320
I use a TP Link AV600 powerline kit, LAN cable from router to plug socket part, 2nd plug in another room and extends wifi.
If you give it the same network name and password as your router it, is seamless.
You can buy more extenders and dot them around, there is a pair function on them to link to the existing network -
• #1321
They should do it. My personal preference is a few (however many is required, I've got two at opposite ends of my house) of the Unifi access points.
https://www.4gon.co.uk/ubiquiti-unifi-ac-lite-access-point-uapaclite-p-6643.htmlLots of nice features like multiple SSDs, guest wi-fi, handing off devices to the strongest signal, etc.
Not the easiest to set up (although much easier than it used to be) but very stable once they're in use.
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• #1322
Thanks, I'm leaning towards this as a solution if we carry on having problems.
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• #1323
So having been redirected from any question answered, I'm having issues with the Virgin superhub 3.
I have 4 devices connected to it through some miracle, but the SSID does not show up at all on any new devices I'd like to connect.
I've been through the admin hub, and SSID is turned on.
Can anybody help with that the issue is?I will add that the internet seems fine on the 4 connected devices the hub will someone allow to be connected.
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• #1324
Have you tried resetting the hub? If it doesn't work after resetting it I'd go on the Virgin media forum and ask for help, it's surprisingly helpful
https://community.virginmedia.com/t5/custom/page/page-id/CommunityHubForumsOr I'd just put it in modem mode and buy a proper router and access point. Mine was never that reliable as a router, it's fine as a modem.
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• #1325
I've done the unplug for 10 mins and turn back on, didn't do anything, but the factory reset is next.
Failing that, I'll be writing a strongly worded letter to Dick Branson.
There is no such thing as an SMA to USB adapter. There are WiFi radios with SMA connectors, some of which have a USB interface. To be legal the whole radio and aerial combination has to be within certain limits which generally means you can't mix and match but have to buy vendor A radio with vendor A aerial.
At high frequencies the signal loss in the cable and connector is high so trying to terminate the cable without proper equipment is likely to be a problem.
The better solution for this kind of thing is to get an external radio and aerial and then run something like Ethernet back inside. Maybe something like https://www.senetic.co.uk/product-rblhg-5hpnd/ (I haven't used that one).