Motorcycle and Scooter appreciation

Still maintain that a CRF250L is adequate as a plaything for green lanes.

Anything heavier than 150kg is unnecessary, and you don’t need the power. If you want to do mad technical stuff then totally go for a 100kg 2T enduro, but your maintenance schedule will become every ride.

I see people with massive bikes posting on the TET group photos of them fallen over. Sod that.

I struggle to pick up and move around my drz at 120kg.

You can imagine my dismay watching a KTM990 fall over, having agreed to help at the start of the ride.

From looking online the curb weight of the 450L seems to be 15kg lighter than the 250L. It's not the off road performance I'm chasing with the extra cc, it's the composure on the road/motorway when needed. Would love a silly light enduro but can't see myself riding it much.

Which is why I have the drz, so I can ride to/from places at 110kph. Plus service intervals. Just saying that picking up 110kg can be difficult when unstable and slippy. Its not like picking up a hike on tarmac.

Sounds like there's always a compromise with dual sports but the lack of service intervals and road manners of the DRZ make it sounds great. I look forward to many impromptu dirt naps!

I am glad jung steered me that way, amazing bike

I would certainly opt for a DRZ if there was one available in good nick. @skinny got a real special one at a great price. But then, if you do find a 450 at a golden price, go for it. Just crazy unlikely.

Not sure I totally trust documented kerb weights. It can depend on the bike geometry and weight distribution just how difficult it is to move. Just like a road bike. I hate even looking at dad’s Interceptor but the weight isn’t much different to my XJ. Similarly I prefer moving the DR350 to the CRF.

Also, don’t ever ride a dual sport on the motorway, even with road tyres. It suuuuucks.

Today's pondering is a 2017 triumph Tiger 1050.

What will tomorrow bring?

1250 GS

I've been trying to fix numerous items on the street triple, one being the water inlet which broke in half when trying to remove it. I've replaced it with a new one and gasket but when I tried it this morning it was leaking from it.
I may have creased the gasket or something? however I assume it doesn't require sealant, etc?

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it was leaking from it

From the mating between the gasket and either side?

I'd be surprised if you need sealant. I would try refitting it with a light smear of grease on each side. It should also help to locate it and keep it in place. Although thinking about it blue hylomar might be better than grease as it won't dissolve or melt. So I'd do that not grease.

Also double check the cleanliness of the surfaces.

As it's a higher milage bike (right?) it's probably worth investing in a Hyanes manual.

Thank for the reply. Yes from the mating surface between the two. It was a very thin paper type gasket
I’ll have a go at refitting - i think it means removing radiator/exhaust again…
Yes 46k - got the manual with the bike but it’s at home and I’m in work

For hylomar you only want a thin smear on both the gasket face and the part. Depending on the application some people recommend hylomar on the removable part (ie no. 33 and the gasket face that it contacts) then use plain grease for the bike side. That way if you do ever have issues cleaning the gasket off you're doing it on a removable part that you can put on a bench, rather than trying to do it on the bike. Maybe overkill/thinking for this application but thought I may as well mention it.

Oh also double check your torque settings and whether the bolts should have blue locktight. Wouldn't expect it to get that hot, but could possibly be an expansion/contraction thing. For my twin I made a neat xls. one side A4 print out to keep in my tool box.

that's great thanks, would LOCTITE SI 5980 Flange Sealant work as well? I can pop into Halfords on the way home and get some.

I'll check torque specs but I only ran it for a couple of minutes (doing a drainage flush, prior to filling with new coolant) and it started leaking

good oil resistance and the ability to withstand high joint movement

Sounds like the right sort of stuff, but I've never used it.

I have hylomar blue for the sump plug threads in my lube box, so that's was large part of the suggestion.

TBH give that it's coming into contact with coolant rather than oil or petrol its probably not all that important what you use.

thanks again. Took it all apart again last night and found I'd done a crappy job removing the old gasket from the block, still might use a smear of sealant just to be on the safe side.

Off work next week, planning on test driving a Triumph Explorer and hope the dealer is happy to come down in price (and give me a good wedge for trade-in....)

Well the lever feel is improved but the pads are likely contaminated and there’s still no bite. And I’m fairly certain the RH fork seal is about to shit the bed again…Urgh.

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What pads are you using?

Could it be that that is just what that compound is like
?

Looks like some toe rag has done this on purpose.
Richmond green .. hope it’s no one on here

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Fook.

Anybody know what this is called or where I could find a replacement? It’s the bolt which fixes the strap pillionn strap down on a street triple - I’ve manage to ruin the threaded part trying to fix a tail pack

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https://www.triumphparts.co.uk/ - try these guys.

thanks, I'll send them a message