Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

CBP-8?

Any idea if it’s any longer than the cob-1? Coz it won’t reach.

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Bearing puller? Plus gas and a flathead screwdriver and some twisting? Probably already tried that one.

Not a clue, soz

Can you not remove the spider first then get a screwdriver and drift slowly?

I thought the orange seal was going to get in the way of me removing the spider but turns out I could get it off past it.

That didn’t create much room as the seal was still filling the gap behind the bearings but it did allow me to get the crown race puller in. I stuck some stuff up inside it to fill the gap to the ‘plunger’ and was able to get some purchase but still no movement. Instead it was the plates on the puller that moved!

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The puller had caught the orange seal though and bent it up so I was able to grab at it with some snips, which didn’t really get it out of the way but created enough of a gap for me to get as screw driver in and start putting some pressure on the race.

I think a combination of being in and out the freezer and boiling water and clamping in the vice and crown race puller and hammering screwdrivers at it caused the bearing race to crack which released the grip and I was able to get it off.

Glad I didn’t have to resort to using fire.

A little grazing to the face of the crank arm but nothing too serious.

Cheers all.

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Excellent news, well done!

Yesssss fam! Always magic when you remove summat stuck.

Also, those park bearing tools are just shite. Get yourself some Cyclo ones. They truly work.

Too late to the party but I'd dremel and smack it out.

Got two loose rivnut/nutserts in a Ti downtube. At the moment they’re preventing a bottle cage from being attached and they’re annoying because they go ‘ting’ during radness.
So: Hot glue gun to fix in place or blu-tack are things I am considering to lessen the noise, but is there a better (and let’s say permanent) solution that will allow me to fit a cage too?
Thanks…

Best option is to use a nutsert tool and try to "pull them up" to refix them in the frame.

You can make a diy one

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qhzVDvnN_yM

Cor! Thanks : )

edit going to glue these for the weekend, then get after ‘em.

Had a few flats through the rim bed recently rather than through the tyre.

My tape has fully embedded itself inside the spoke holes - is it possible that the tube is rubbing in this area and creating issues?

Should I re-tape? Double layer?

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yeah, usually a 2nd layer of tape should do the trick. I had this issue too and ended up with 2 rim tapes as quick fix, but imho high pressure rim tape is the better solution for this.

The cradle on this hylix seatpost wont be bueno with the carbon braided 7*10mm rails of a Fizik Antares R1, correct?

Edit: Although previous owner used it with a Tune Komm Vor, that has 8*9mm carbon rails.

Hi, just bought a second hand frame and forks and the bearing race has a split in it. Seems intentional but non of my other bikes have it?

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It's to make fitting/removing easier

They come like that now and that one needs lubing.

Some crown races are split. Some are not. It's fine.

Applies to cartridge bearings only. :)

I’ve been stripping parts off of this old Kona alloy road frame which I’ve had for years. After removing the front derailleur (band-on) I noticed this odd dent just below on the drive side (see photo, sorry it’s not great!) I can’t imagine this is from an impact since it would have also damaged the derailleur. Also, it’s weirdly neat, like a perfect little rectangle. Is it possible this is somehow a deliberate feature of the frame?

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That photo shows almost nothing, but it's almost certainly meant to be there.

Thanks. Ha yeah sorry about the photo. Googling got me to a thread elsewhere which suggested maybe this is a thing frame manufacturers do accommodate the movement of the fd cage.

Exactly what it is (probably, not the clearest pic)