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  • We got this one. Like you, our bath spans the whole room so this one seemed ok length wise. But, the plinth part is supposed to fit behind the main bit which makes the height adjustable. However, the lip of our bath didn't overhang the uprights of the frame enough, so with the main panel and the plinth overlapping, it sat at a weird angle. So I had to fit the main part then scribe and cut the plinth to fit between it and the tiles. Probably won't last very long, but will do until this bathroom is redone in a few years. Then I'd be more inclined to do something custom out of marine ply and go heavy on the waterproofing.

    https://www.argos.co.uk/product/4720575

  • We got a panel with doors that open to allow for under bath storage of cleaning products and stuff (and easy inspection for leaks

    Pet hate on mine is how most services in houses are boxed in and impossible to access when you inevitably need to maintain them in some way. We need more conduits with doors etc.

  • Also, you'd think the three sections would make it easy to install, but you need extra room length wise to fit it together. And because it only just fit assembled, I had to assemble it first and then maneuver it into place. Then silicone all the joins.

  • Amen to hatches, covers, doors, and future proofing stuff

  • I'm quoting here from another forum :-
    https://www2.theiet.org/forums/forum/messageview.cfm?catid=205&threadid=59856
    13A double socket rating to BS1363

    BS1363-2:1995 requires for double socket outlets that both socket outlets have loads applied via test plugs, 1 test plug having a load of 14 amps whilst the other has a load of 6 amps, making a total load of 20 amps on the cable supplying the double socket outlet. The double socket outlet is then subjected to this loading for a minimum continuous period of 4 hours or longer until stability is reached with a maximum duration of 8 hours (stability being taken as less than 1 degC rise within 1 h). The test is passed if neither the terminals / terminations, nor the accessible external surface, increase in temperature by more than 52 degC.


    This still makes more sense to me since each 13amp outlet (or gang) should surely be capable of a 13amp draw. Diversity would probably be allowed for as we know electrical regulations do take this into account.

    Not trying to be argumentative, now I need to know for sure :)

  • BS 1363 Part 2:1995 gives 13A max.

    Which page?

    The BS standards are a bit weird in defining a number of practical tests a device has to pass (including 14A + 6A) rather than just having nominal specs they need to meet.

    It is bizarre given how rigorous the rest of the electrical regs are about preventing overloads that unfused double sockets that can't take 26A are apparently perfectly fine.

  • I am sure that they can take more than 13A. However try telling that to people and you are heading for trouble.

    It is much simpler to say 'a double socket can take a maximum load of 13A indefinitely' than 'it can take 20A for an unspecified time between 4 and 8 hours'.

    I'm happy to run a socket with more than a 13A load but I wouldn't tell a client / customer that.

    Neither can I tell you the page number as I don't want to spend £260 on a copy of the standard to check.

  • All this talk of electrical safety standards has reminded me to post these fine examples of French wiring. 6 amps and on the lighting circuit. Yass.


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  • Not to mention the wall papering skills to wrap the conduit...

  • Oh that wallpaper is directly on the cable. It's an extremely popular way of insulating, fireproofing or completely concealing cables. I'm sure it must be effective and safe.

    We also have 2 pin 16 amp sockets everywhere, bare wires and chocolate blocks on one wall, and none of the kitchen sockets or lights have any fuses or circuit breakers, save for the main house RCD, and no earth in the outbuildings across the street. (It's the householder's responsibility to connect an earth here, and our previous owner didn't bother.)

    But, I've saved the best till last. I think we can all agree that running two 20 amp circuits through a door is super safe and definitely not an eyesore, can't we?


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  • Love the door! At least there is a whole house RCD though.

  • I was jealous of you being in France....

  • Door strip in progress, awkward as fuck - I can see why people recommended laying it flat!


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  • That is next level

  • I had ours dipped and stripped years ago, but I still had to spend some hours on each scrapping paint from tight corners.

  • Did you have others doors to install while yours were being dipped?

  • No, these were interior doors, fir.

  • Yeah, next time I’m paying someone else to do this!


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  • Looks shit like that. Should have left it grey.

  • I feel your pain. Wife was away with work a while ago and I decided to surprise her by stripping and painting the front door. I managed to strip it and undercoat it - took two days!! Then I realised I had not the skill to gloss it. Luckily a painter mate pulled me out of a hole. Turned out a good job. Take away message - NEVER AGAIN!

  • You don’t appreciate art.

  • Two experienced guys, on site for 12 days to do ours, and the frames. (not including the month that the stained glass was off site getting acid dipped and resoldered).

  • I admire your patience 😀

  • I was not one of those experienced guys and we weren't paying them a day rate so couldn't give a fuck how long it took. The month with the door boarded up like a crack house was another thing though. Complimented our "cracked rendering and mattress on the floor" aesthetic though.

  • 12 days to strip and paint a front door!?

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Home DIY

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