• I'm about to embark down the rabbit hole of replacing my climbing shoes after my five tens are worn out.

    Thinking of going for Scarpa Vapour V, has anyone experience with those?

    Tempted to go for solutions or futuras this time but my fitness has dropped off a bit and i think they write a cheque i probably can't cash at the moment

  • You should try some Unparallel models if you got on with 5 ten. I've got the TN Pro which is a really good shoe. Coming from Otakis which I also really liked, the Unparallel rubber really was surprisingly good.
    But agree with above, get what fits.

  • I never got on with my five tens really, they never fit my arches that well and I always had no confidence on small foot holds. I guess the problem is because I never felt like they really fit, I don’t know how to define what a good fit is if that makes sense?

    I am sort of stuck with a scarpa or la sportiva shoe as that’s basically what’s available locally.

    I looked at vapour V because they seem like a sensible moderately aggressive shoe for an intermediate boulderer like me. I guess an alternative would be a miura but I can’t find a pair to try on.

    I tried on a 43 vapour V which felt decent as far as I could tell, no dead space in the shoe and no hideous discomfort really.
    I could probably get into the 42.5 to make the heels a bit more snug and cover off any stretching but I’d be risking them being too small as I’ll have to order them from overseas

About

Avatar for chiroshi @chiroshi started