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Sorry should have uploaded a photo instead of trying to explain badly.
So image is the bottom fused switch. I'm trying to replace it with a wifi/timer switch.
The ends of the cable are too thick tofot exactly in new timer and replicate the images circuit. Even trying to fit them in a wago 221 connector is a struggle.
Trimming the wires to fit feels like a bodge what's the correct way?
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GOAThac
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What is the load on that switch? Why can’t you just leave that switched on, or replace it with an unswitched spur, and just put the WiFi switch on the load side?
I still don’t understand what the exact situation is tbh, lol.
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Are you looking at a live loop on 4 or 6mm stranded so there is another load on the loop that needs 4 or 6mm with the output to the water heater on 2.5 twin and earth? 3kw is 12.5A so 2.5 t&e is usually sufficient.
In which case you'd put your wifi switch between the load side and the wires currently in the load side. So keep that switch, add your wifi switch, connect load side n&l with wagos and short wire through to load side of new switch and connect load side of this switch to new wifi switch. Just add the wifi switch under this one on a similar back box and drill or breakout between the 2 of them.
Which is just a different way of saying what Nef has already said! except I've given you the amp rating (12.5) for a 3kw load. I'd be surprised if the wifi switch wasn't rated for 13A but it might be on the limit.
Nef
Airhead
I don’t quite understand what you’re describing. But if you need to spur off for small loads, I’d just put on a spur with a 3a fuse and then run 1.5mm cable out of it. 1mm would probably be fine. Anything down circuit from the 3a fuse can be on a small cable.
Or do you just mean that you can’t fit the two line conductors etc in a single terminal? In which case spurring off a junction box is probably easier. Junction box - fused connection unit - 1mm cable out.
If you install a fused spur and have smaller cable going out, remember to change the 13a fuse for a 3a one.