Front rack suggestions

Got one of these BRN Bernadi racks for sale.

It’s brand new and comes with both rods (for 6mm axle and 10mm axle).

£46 pick up from London.

Works and looks great!

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My padre is after a rack like this, anyone know where I can get him one? (This is a blb lite rack, sold out)

How about the Steco Flow? Not quite as sleek, but a similar design. I've had one for a couple of years and it's been pretty bombproof so far.

Does look good, I’ll send it to him. Only problem is it’s from HBS, would be quite annoying to get hit by custom charges as well as shipping

https://www.ridewill.it/c3/en/cycling/1/accessories/20/bike-carrier-and-pannier-racks/140/front-bike-racks/396/

People seem to have good luck ordering from here without getting stung for customs

Thanks Spotter

Yeah, @mind_maze I have a silver Rasket and I love it. Super useful for carrying groceries etc. I haven't used it with panniers yet but think it will be fine.

The weight limit yoshy refers to is that there is an overall weight limit of 15kg but that is divided into 5kg for the basket and 5kg for a pannier on each side - and they seem quite strict about the 5kg basket limit. I've probably had about 10kg in there to do a mile or two journey home with groceries and the steering was pretty unpleasant with that much weight in it.

Overall though I'm really happy with it and will probably get another for my touring bike at some point.

Picked up a Sim Works Obento, wald 137 and WW Alkazam. Just in the process of fitting it and ran into a few questions I could guess at but want to do it right (paging @spotter / @Harry.Major)

Will let people know how I get on with it. Simworks rack didn't come with anything to mount the P clips to a fork without an eyelet and not sure on the length of the stays but I'll come to that.

1. Where it mounts to the top of the fork, am I okay piggy backing off of my mudguard's bolt from a strength perspective?
   
2. Do I need to mount all 4 struts to get the 5kg load? seems on my bike (genesis CDF) that 2 is right. 2 would be sharing the same mount if not.
   
3. Do people just angle grind off and file the excess strut arms? Even mounting the 2 shorter ones, still sticking up too much to be use the bag.
   
4. The stainless plate that goes from the top of the fork to the main bit of the rack - is there an optimum distance along to mount it? Currently have it at one extreme to make the rack flat with the uncut stays.
   
   

Cheers

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1.) Rack inside stay mudguard outside stay if you're sharing eyelets
2.) I wouldn't think so what's the m-18's max load? But more struts also means less wobbly
3.) Only if needed, but I normally use a big bolt cropper and a file.
4.) As short as possible whilst maintaining a flat rack. with all mounting hardware, shorter = stiffer

Thanks very much that was quick - before I could add the photos! What do you mean on number 1? I am sharing the eyelet. Mudguard top bit is at the back of the fork, rack bit is at the front currently. Pic will show it

On 2) it is this one and 5kg

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Don’t understand why you wouldn’t want all four stays, front ones down to eyelet near fork end, rear ones to mid-fork? Then your attatchment at the fork crown will be a lot less critical.

Think spotter missed your point about piggybacking at thr crown and thought you meant stays.

Sharing the bolt at the fork crown is fine.

If you have 4 stays and they're long enough, this will probably be the most stable way to mount.

Dremel, hacksaw, grinder or big bolt croppers all work for trimming stays. Measure several times then cut as spares aren't always easy/cheap to come across. If you can leave a little extra length on them without interfering with the basket/bag I would, just to be on the safe side, but if you can't then get snipping!

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Crown question like is the bolt designed for some plastic mudguards robust enough for 5kg

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Thanks for that and nice diagram. I could do that I suppose. Will Google the rack and see what others have done

Edit - seen people going into the same mid fork eyelet

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No. Do the way we suggested. Then the strength if the crown bolt won’t be so crucial.
If it went with both stays mounted to the same eyes, the rack will jam your front wheel. Bye bye teeth.

Use four stays in separate eyelets.

Almost certainly, but throw a toe strap between the tombstone of the rack and your the headtube if you're likely to overload the rack, will forget to check the bolts occasionally or just generally like to play it safe.

As @Skülly said, multiple mounting points will be better if the bolt did come loose rather than doubling up on the midfork eyelet. That said, if the bolt does go, your mudguard will be in the wheel too so who knows.

@Skülly @atk bang on! Need to trim and file the stays then job's a gooden. Every other picture of this rack online has them going into the mid fork eyelet but I agree this way will be stronger

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Yep, I reckon most ‘gravelly’ forks don’t have that boss on top of the fork end that yours does.

That's the one, you may be able to flip the crown stay too judging by the fact that it's curved down.

Yeah no photos when I replied, thanks

Can you get panniers on a pelago commuter (large) without the additional pannier support thing they sell?

I haven't got mine to hand to figure it out, but some images online look like you can? My guess is you could get the top locking things on but you would probably struggle to secure it at the bottom which isn't that functional

Rack finished. The wald was designed to mount to the bars, so it has two metal prongs that are just in the way (can just about see on second/third pic). Need to hack these out I think so that the bag can sit flat.

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Can you get panniers on a pelago commuter (large) without the additional pannier support thing they sell?

Yes. 20L 'rear' Ortlieb panniers for example work just fine. Securing the panniers at the bottom was no problem at all with my Ortliebs.

The panniers are a little high up and forward, so not in an ideal position. But this never really bothered me. Toured with this setup for years.

that's dreamy, thanks!