Home DIY

I'm doing an outside project using wood. The final thing will be painted to protect it from the elements.

As luck would have it, there are some pre-primed hard word pieces I can buy that would work, and they are significantly less spendy than unprimed. Manufacturer recommends a solvent based paint.

Would buying these and then coating them with something like Sandext 10 year be a massive gamble? My concerns are

• the quality of wood would be < unprimed bare hardwood
  
• the primer might not be optimal for the paint
  

I never said seal the gas pipe though did I so it’s not wrong advice. Once side of the sleeve should be sealed with no setting mastic which I imagine it already is. The gaping hole is around the outside of the sleeve.

Please refer me to where in the gas regs it says that silicon is dangerous on a gas pipe and how what I’ve said is wrong. More chance if he use concrete on that it could corrode the gas pipe.

I have attached an image from part one of the book in regards to you sound like you don’t know what your talking about. It even mentions silicon for fixing the sleeve to the building 😂

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Thanks - will have a look. its already sealed from the inside just want to provide a further seal on the outside to the plastic sleeve

Painting freshly plastered wall and specifically the metal corner beads, can I use Zinsser shellac based primer, sand then paint over with a water based emulsion?

Otherwise what's the general go to technique for painting these?

Silicon or something like that. Its just a gas pipe sleeved to go through a wall.

Is a very different answer to your second post on the subject.

I mean your reply is very different too, theres some common sense here and from the picture there hole surround the sleeve is gaping. Yet you said the information is incorrect, it seems common sense might be not that common.

I've not thought as much about it as this, but never had problem with a simple mist coat and emulsion on new plaster including the beads.

I would recommend leaving it for as long as possible to dry, we've had some peeling where we did it too soon.

The recommendation for drying plaster walls from old school plasterers is months. I've seen plenty of examples where the paint is only barely stuck to the wall and you can remove the whole thing with a scraper blade because it's painted too soon. It's letting out mositure for a long time as the crystal structure forms.

I don't paint a lot of newly plastered walls but the beading should be ok with emulsion unless it's rusty in which case zinsser bin or cover stain are good options although either of them might cause some change in the surface finish of the emulsion. I generally don't use Bin (the shellac version) because of the meths clean up but cover stain still needs white spirit unless you use the spray can version which is pretty handy.

What’s the principle here? You can’t seal around both ends of a bare pipe through a wall because if the pipe leaks you get a buildup of gas in the void? But you can seal both ends of a sleeve on a pipe to the wall? Or just one end?

Seems like you can seal the sleeve to the building using whatever method you prefer and at both ends. The pipe can only be sealed on the interior end with flexible fire resistant compound.

Possibly the regs might be more concerned with the transmission of fire through the sleeve than a gas leak inside a sealed sleeve. Compartment sealing is a pretty big regulatory concern.

You sleeve a pipe through a wall so that if there is a gas escape in the pipe it doesn't go up the void in the wall, sealing the inside allows the gas to escape to the outside if there is a problem so you never seal both sides of the pipe but the picture in question your not sealing the inside where the pipe is passing through your looking at the crater thats around the sleeve.

In reality though if you've got a fire, a sleeve is the least of your worries.

Got it, thanks both.

Is there a forum approved "my first decent drill"?

Been making do with a very substandard corded job forever - moving house soon as thinking of treating myself so I don't knacker the new walls as much as I have these ones.

Cordless preferable, and able to get through most stuff.

Okay thank you, I've done the second layer of emulsion mist coat today and it seems to not show through as much so I'm guessing with two other coats of the actual paint that will go on the wall it will be fine!

Budget?

Milwaukee drill and impact set is great, I use me a lot and they are usually dead on.

^ this

My DeWalt is good - cheaper than Milwaukee and probably for a reason but I couldn’t justify the expense for pro tools as I am far from a pro. I also considered the ability to buy other tools which use the same battery like a multi tool which is excellent. Future plans are likely a jigsaw and, maybe, a lawn strimmer (although it seems over priced currently).

I went with DeWalt. Nice and light, seems powerful enough to get through most stuff and plenty of other things use the batteries.

I do have a cheapo corded SDS for heavy stuff but it's rare that I have to get that out. For ~£50 though it's way more powerful than any cordless drill so I didn't worry too much about a cordless that could be used for everything.

I think we go through this at least every couple of months!

You won't go wrong with Makita, DeWalt or Milwaukee. all three are heavily used by trades, and every tradie you speak to will swear that the one they use is the best! Basically they are all more than good enough for heavy DIY use.

If you want a cheaper option you can do much worse than Erbauer stuff from Screwfix, its a step up from other own brand stuff.

I would also contemplate what voltage you want to get, for a lot of jobs the lower volt stuff (10 or 12v) is more than powerful enough, and it is nice and light to use.

If you want to go fancy consider brushless over brushed, more powerful and longer battery run times.

If you want a good retailer who run lots of deals, I would recommend powertoolmate, and their deals page https://www.powertoolmate.co.uk/deals/

I completely disagree. With gas you don't want to rely on common sense or interpretation. You want clearly written rules.

You first answer was wrong as you advised a DIYer to seal the pipe with silicone, ommiting to mention the important part about venting to outside. This is particularly relevant in the above photo as the sleeve does not extend beyond the face of the wall so a DIY attempt to seal based on your initial advice would certainly seal the sleeve.

You are also wrong the sleeve is just there to prevent gas escape into a void. If you were familiar with / had read the regs you posted above you will note the sleeve is also there to protect the pipework from movement in the wall.

But it doesn’t prevent pipe work from moving in the wall no matter what the regs say, let’s talk real life her instead of theoreticals. You can disagree all you want but even if he sealed it what’s it gonna do? You seem like the expert. I see far worse on the job regularly from “qualified engineers” and wouldn’t be worrying about triviality like this.
I’d say if the person was breaking into a gas line it would be completely different but your making a mountain out of a mole hill here in terms of real life Over something that might or might not be sealed inside

I think we go through this at least every couple of months!

You won't go wrong with Makita, DeWalt or Milwaukee

The only couple of things I'd add are:

• Makita batteries are expensive so go with a deal that gives you two, as any "body only" deals you find later don't represent good value without already owning batteries.
  
• Milwaukee only sell more expensive stuff, so while like-for-like there's probably not much in it, you'll probably have more good value DeWalt and Makita deals at the intermediate level.
  
• DeWalt in particular seem to do a million slightly different models, so it's not always easy to compare them.
  

Actually I would add on Makita, avoid the white or red batteries, stick to LXT.

I'm about to fit the forum approved twin track shelving (budget Vitsoe).

What is the forum-approved budget Vitsoe..?