Motorcycle and Scooter appreciation

I was given a C90 by a taxi driver neighbour who had kept it since doing the knowledge. At the time I had 3 bikes so I generously gave it to my neighbours son who immediately sold it for cash. Needless to say he's not had the time of day from me since.

Dad’s thinking to sell his 2020 CRF250L.

It’s not immaculate but it hasn’t touched more than a few hundred yards of dirt. Around a thousand road miles since purchase in October (need to double check). Got some R&G case savers and some crash bars still not fitted. Also got a Devol lowering link that could be supplied with. Marks to the plastics including one to the headlamp surround. Some scratches on the exhaust plastic cover from climbing on and off.

If anyone was in the market, let me know.

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Buzzing (as you can see from the goofy smile)

Just picked this up in blackburn and rode it home to Manchester.

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Also got a lextek exhaust, tank bag, lock and a few other bits thrown in.

Beware you need an L plate both front and rear to be legal, and it’s easy money for the policeman that stops you.

Also congrats!

Thanks :)
To be clear I hadn’t ridden it before the bottom photo, just wheeled it down to a cafe whilst I insured and taxed it. Promptly popped L plates on the front and rear ( :( ) . The front one is skilfully hidden in the second photo,as it’s attached at the left fork only to allow for any bigger bumps.

Ace!!

Congrats. Ride safe.

So, earlier than I was hoping, but need a little advise on maintenance!

I’m hoping this is as small a job as I think it is. I’ve noticed the rear brake is not actuating the light (but front brake is)

I’ve isolated the issue (worn cable) and found a replacement.

Now all I need to know is, will I need to bleed the brake (I hope not), or is it just unscrew and screw back in?

I can get some better photos without that plate on tomorrow.

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With no knowledge of motorcycle brakes, I’d say no, if the brake works, it works. No need to bleed anything. Just looks like you need to rewire or replace that connection

unscrew

If it's a regular banjo bolt pressure switch like this then the act of unscrewing will mean you'll have to rebleed the system. Did mine recently in about 30mins so too bad, just take your time. Although granted if your MOT isn't for a while then not mega urgent.

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Ouch

Like @jambon said, if you’re replacing it then you need to rebleed.

Take it as an opportunity to put new fluid in the brake and bleed it fully.

Buy one of these kits for whatever the cheapest price you can find. You can do it without, but this is worth every penny for the time saved.

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Bugger, I feared as much.

I’ve never bothered with hydraulics on my bicycles as I’ve no idea what I’m doing with them. Oh well, I’ll get one of those kits and watch a YouTube video.

MOT is due in October (it’s first ever I believe) so I best get it fixed!

@hp93

Don’t need that kit for the rear. Bleeding rear brake is piss easy. It’ll take five minutes tops. Fill reservoir, push brake lever down a few times till piston comes out. Push down once again but hold, open bleed port, close bleed port, release lever. Do a few more times in that sequence till you feel good resistance and you have pressure.

It’s easier than bicycle.

Hmmm, so I won’t need to replace the fluid with this approach?

If I do replace the fluid, what DOT should I be buying? Just the highest rating possible? (5.1?)

First mechanical! One of the sodding captive lugs sheared off the right clip on. Fortunately discovered it before setting off on my last ride. New clip ons required - perhaps time for some Harris bling.

Wee man is very fond.

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On the brakes, first +1 to what chak said on replacing fluid.

As it's a closed system you only need to get into proper bleeding when there's air trapped or if you replace or rebuild the caliper. It's not the end of the world, but it changes the job from pouring fluid in a reservoir while fiddling with a spanner and a leaver into something more involved.

Both my Derbi (Piaggio brand) and my Triumph had the rear brake light controlled from the actuation of the foot pedal hitting a switch. It was unconnected to the brake fluid system.

I find del boys videos really helpful for the brake stuff: https://youtu.be/jsWAybC05RQ

@chak is right that you don’t need the kit.

However, on the rear especially I found the process frustrating. On at least two bikes trying to do this without the kit there was difficulty getting enough pressure.

With the kit, just pump the vacuum handle and keep pumping it when you open and then close the bleed nipple. It sucks the fluid through. Job done.

Thanks guys, all very helpful!

As it’s only about £13 I might just buy the bleed kit anyway just in case.

It’s really worth having. I don’t disagree that you can bleed brakes using the brake lever, but sod that. So much easier and faster once you have the knack with the vacuum kit.

Wee man is very fond.

Get some gold spray paint and paint his wheels to match!

Does anyone know if 2nd hand dual sports/enduros get more expensive in Spring, like most other bikes?

They just get more expensive. Seasons don’t matter, they just go up in price whenever you look at them.

On that topic dad has decided he wants around £4k ono for his clean 1.3k mile CRF250L.

I thought that might be the case. Found myself admiring this which is lovely, but also reinforces what you've said. Your dad's CRF250L seems well priced compared.